If you walk
down from Drepung monastery you find Nechung monastery on your left side.
Nechung monastery is the seat of the State Oracle of Tibet. Pehar, a spirit
protector, had been moved from Kokonor to finally Nechung. The State Oracle is
a Nyingma monk, who is possessed by Peharas Dorje Drakden (one of his aspects)
during trance. I’ve also heard that the
Oracle wasn’t only in trance but also drunk, so that his slurred voice had to
be interpreted.
Wikipedia has:
“When the State Oracle is possessed by Pehar, he becomes very agitated, with
tongue lolling, bloodshot eyes and displays superhuman strength, lifting heavy
weights, twisting swords, etc. He mumbles words which are recorded and then
interpreted by monks and also blesses grain which is thrown to the crowd.” He
needed superhuman strength as the dress had been very heavy (70 pounds /
“Altogether, this outfit weighs more than seventy pounds and the medium, when
not in trance, can hardly walk in it”).
If you dig
deeper into the practice of the State Oracle, you find the phowa practice,
which is a meditation practice ("the practice of conscious dying" or
"transference of consciousness at the time of death").
There is quite
a lot of Nyingpa and Bönpa influence, but the Dalai Lamas consulted the State
Oracle before important decision. I’ve heard rumors that the 14th Dalai Lama
wants to abolish the institution of the State Oracle.
If you’re more
skeptical: “In spite of holding the respected position of state oracle, the
Nechung oracle over the centuries has been beset with numerous controversies.
Hence, many high lamas both in the past and today refuse to consult the Nechung
oracle even on the smallest of matters as this oracle has been proven to give
inaccurate pronouncements and prophecies over the years.” [The Unreliability of
the Nechung Oracle]
Nechung had
been destroyed, but has been rebuilt. It looks very similar compared to old
pictures. Even the two stone incense burner are in front of the main hall.
Links:
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