The Galle Face Hotel in Colombo, Sri Lanka

According to my (outdated) guidebook, the Galle Face Hotel claims to be the oldest hotel in Asia, having opened its doors in 1856 [1]. I find this claim rather bold, given the fact that the Japanese hotel Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan (西山温泉慶雲館) began operations about 1,300 years ago [2]. And even sticking to Sri Lanka, there is also the Queen's Hotel in Kandy [3]. I stayed at both hotels this time. The Queen's has been around since 1840, when it operated as a hostel under the name of Malabar House. It changed owners in 1869 and was renamed the Queen's Hotel. Well, opinions may differ on the matter, but the Galle Face Hotel in Colombo has certainly made a name for itself over the past 170 years [4]. I was already familiar with the hotel from my earlier visits in the 1970ies; back then, we used to enjoy heading from Wellawatta to either the Galle Face Hotel or the Mount Lavinia Hotel in the evening for a drink at the bar. But let’s take a closer look at the Galle Face Hotel nowadays.

The hotel has been refurbished, but still retains the atmosphere of times gone by. Some reaking doors, stairs or floor boards can still be found. I was somewhat surprised in the evening when the Sri Lankan flag was lowered to the sound of bagpipes. However, the picture becomes clearer when you look at the list of celebrity guests. The late Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, stayed at the hotel, and one of his cars is on display in the hotel's museum section. Although the hotel boasts three bars and a pub, I didn't visit any of them this time; after an overnight flight, we had stayed up all day, and I was understandably tired.

 

Links and Annotations:
[1] Apa Guides: Sri Lanka. Hongkong 1995. ISBN: 3-8268-1362-6. P. 114.
Well, according to Wikipedia the Galle Face Hotel has been founded in 1864 [4].
[2] It's an onsen ryokan (温泉旅館) and has been founded in the year 705 by Fujiwara no Mahito (藤原真人).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishiyama_Onsen_Keiunkan  and
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%85%B6%E9%9B%B2%E9%A4%A8_(%E6%97%85%E9%A4%A8) 
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen%27s_Hotel,_Kandy 
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galle_Face_Hotel 

.

 

Sigiriya Rock in Sri Lanka

I recall that Sigiriya was already a prominent tourist destination during my first visit in the 1970s, attracting almost all tour groups as well as independent travelers. Nowadays, however, a sheer multitude of people head there and climb the rock—at least as far as the so-called "Cloud Maidens." Photography is no longer permitted there. I assume this is primarily for safety reasons; the constant stream of tourists cannot be repeatedly halted, given the many staircases and winding steps along steel scaffolding that must be climbed. On the other hand, there is no other way to prevent tourists from taking snapshots with cameras that automatically trigger a flash. Long-term, cumulative exposure to camera flashes could damage the delicate natural pigments of the frescoes. The Federal Foreign Office in Berlin warns tourists in Sri Lanka against photographing the Sigiriya Cloud Maiden frescoes, as it is strictly prohibited and could result in severe penalties and the confiscation of the camera. It is fortunate that I was able to take photos (without flash) over 40 years ago, though the results are modest at the least. One can view replicas of the frescoes in the museum without climbing the rock itself. This also leaves time to admire the landscaped gardens.

Pidurangala Rock (පිදුරංගල) is often recommended as an alternative [1]; this rock is located about 1 km north of Sigiriya Rock. Both are made of solid granite. And yes, at Pidurangala Rock, too, one sees frescoes during the ascent—which is much shorter—plus it is cheaper and less crowded. At the summit lie the remains of a fortress commissioned by King Kassapa between 477 and 495 AD. A fantastic destination, but it is not Sigiriya! 

Sigiriya Rock—meaning "Lion Rock" (Sinhala: සීගිරිය, Tamil: சிகிரியா/சிங்ககிரி)—can be considered a landmark of Sri Lanka. The rock stands approximately 180 meters high [2] and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. Its name derives from a colossal lion sculpture; the paws of this figure can still be admired halfway up the rock face. King Kassapa I began his reign in 473 AD after killing his father, King Dhatusena—a ruler who, according to one guidebook, was buried alive [3]. The rightful heir to the throne was Moggallana (Mugallan). Fearing him, Kassapa I relocated his royal residence to the rock and also had a second fortress built on nearby Pidurangala Rock. Moggallana returned from exile in South India in 491 and defeated Kassapa. He subsequently restored Anuradhapura as the capital; thus, while Sigiriya served as the royal seat for less than twenty years, its splendor endures to this day.

There is ample space atop the rock, so the crowds of tourists are barely noticeable. Little has changed up there over the years.

Links and Annotations:
[1] http://mimiinwanderland.de/pidurangala-rock-die-bessere-alternative-zum-beruehmten-sigiriya-rock/ 
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sigiriya and https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sigiriya 
[3] Apa Guides: Sri Lanka. Hongkong 1995. ISBN: 3-8268-1362-6. S. 205.

.

 

A Visit to the Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

When I think of the cave temple in Dambulla, I automatically think of "Dambala" – a reggae song by Exuma [1]: "Oh, Dambala, come Dambala." This might sound a bit peculiar, but at the time of my first visit to the caves – some 50 years ago – we listened to musicians like Exuma constantly; I still own a cassette tape of his, though I recently enjoyed listening to "Dambala" on YouTube.

The Dambulla Cave Temple (දඹුල්ල රජ මහා විහාර) – also known as the Dambulla Raja Maha Viharaya or the Golden Temple of Dambulla – has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the central part of Sri Lanka since 1991 [2]. A lengthy conservation project (1982–1996) was undertaken with the specific aim of preserving the eighteenth-century mural schemes found within the site. In 2003, the designated protection zone was expanded. This was a sensible measure, as the temple continues to serve as an active ritual center. In total, five temple caves are open to visitors; the largest of these measures 52 by 23 meters – covering an area of nearly 1,200 square meters. They offer ample space for both worshippers and tourists alike. As one approaches the caves, one is enveloped by the scent of the flowers offered as votives, and, of course, by the fragrance of incense.

Pre-Buddhist burial sites – estimated to be approximately 2,700 years old – have been discovered in the surrounding area, leading to the belief that the caves were inhabited in ancient times. There are other caves in the vicinity as well – about 80 in total. It is likely that the caves were transformed into a royal temple as early as the late 2nd century BCE, under the reign of King Walagamba of Anuradhapura. King Nishankamalla of Polonnaruwa is also worthy of mention, as he dedicated 70 Buddha statues to the temple in 1190 AD. The site is home to thousands of wall paintings, which depict, in particular, scenes from the life of the Buddha. In total, 2,300 square meters are covered with paintings. There are 153 Buddha statues, three statues of kings, as well as statues of Vishnu and Ganesha. The Wikipedia article offers very comprehensive descriptions. There is a noteworthy article from 2025 titled "The Sacred Caves of Dambulla: Where Rock Becomes Prayer" [3]. Quite fresh – barely a month old – is the article from the Impart Encyclopedia of Art [4]; notably, it features absolutely no people, which is a sensible approach for an article of this kind.

One must climb up to reach the cave temple, but the ascent is well worth the effort. And – incidentally – even non-Buddhists are permitted to bring flowers along with them. Please buy some from the vendors.

 

Links and Annotations:
[1] „Oh, Dambala, come Dambala / Oh, Dambala, come Dambala“ from the Lyrics [1a] of the song „Dambala“ [1b] by Exuma [1c], who already passed over nearly 30 years ago.
[1a] https://genius.com/Exuma-dambala-lyrics 
[1b] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4q4rXpaOhAU&t=11s 
[1c] Macfarlane Gregory Anthony Mackey (1942-1997), aka Exuma, was a Bahamian musician, artist, playwright, and author. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exuma_(musician)  
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dambulla_cave_temple and
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dambulla-H%C3%B6hlentempel 
[3] The Sacred Caves of Dambulla: Where Rock Becomes Prayer 
https://ceylonhistory.com/en/stories/dambulla-cave-temple/ 
[4] Impart Encyclopedia of Art (2026) Dambulla Cave Temple. Available at: https://imp-art.org/articles/dambulla-cave-temple/ (Accessed: 13 May 2026). 

.

 

Drinking King Coconut in Sri Lanka

Om Projramm steht Weltreis,
Wie jeden Daach verzällt e’, wat ihm wo passiert ess:
Kokosnöss un Packeis,
Un wie e’ övver dä Äquator balanciert ess.
BAP [1]

The coconut (Cocos nucifera) belongs to the palm family. The term coconut refers to both the entire tree and the large, hard fruit. The coconut originates from the central Indo-Pacific region but is now found throughout the tropics [2]. This is interesting because I just realized I haven't taken any pictures of coconut palms in a long time. However, I did find a very old picture from Goa and one from Aitutaki (Cook Islands). Perhaps a further note about Goa: you can almost have the beach to yourself if you just walk a short distance along the shore. You might even see water buffalo or cattle bathing and cooling off in the sea. But I digress again…

In Sri Lanka, you often see roadside stalls selling coconuts that are opened for you, and from which you can drink the coconut water [3]. It really is almost entirely water, about 95%. 3-4% of coconut water is sugar, so it tastes sweet but contains significantly less sugar than soft drinks [4]. The protein and fat content of coconut water is negligible. It also contains only small amounts of vitamins and minerals. So if someone tells you that coconut water is healthy -: yes and no! It is only healthy if you drink it instead of soft drinks. For ecological reasons, I don't like it sold bottled or canned in Europe or Northern America. It is a drink to be bought locally.

 

The yellow-skinned "King Coconut" (Cocos nucifera var. aurantiaca) [5] is native to Sri Lanka and contains more coconut water and less pulp, as it has been cultivated as a drinking coconut. It is known as Thæmbili (Sinhala: තැඹිලි); in Tamil it's Ārañcu (ஆரஞ்ச). The coconut water is the liquid endosperm of young coconuts, which develops into the rind of the coconut pulp. This can also be eaten, and a spoon is carved from the outer shell for you. Once the coconut is emptied, it is cut in half so that you can enjoy this part as well. The shells are dried and used as fuel; no bottles or cans are left over.

Goa (India)

Aitutaki (Cook Islands)

Links and Annotations:
[1] From the song „Jupp“ [1a] by BAP [1b]. The text is in Kölsch, the dialect of Cologne and translates into German:
„Auf dem Programm steht Weltreise,
Wie jeden Tag erzählt er, was ihm wo passiert ist:
Kokosnüsse und Packeis,
Und wie er über den Äquator balanciert ist.“
And English:
„On the agenda is a world trip,
Like every day, he tells us what happened to him and where:
Coconuts and pack ice,
And how he balanced across the equator.“
[1a] https://bap.de/songtext/jupp/  
[1b] BAP is a successful German rock band. The lyrics are in Kölsch/Ripuarian.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BAP_(German_band) 
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coconut  
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coconut_water  
[4] Although soft drinks in Germany contain somewhat less sugar than in the USA, they contain about three times the amount compared to coconut water. 
[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_coconut 

.

 

Peacocks, especially in Sri Lanka

 

What's rich to him
That has made a great peacock
With the pride of his eye?

William Butler Yeats [1]

I have seen a great deal of peacocks in my life, and they have always been present in my life. My earliest memories, however, are not of peacocks as such, as I might have seen them during a visit to the zoo, but rather of reports I saw as a child in the yellow press. These reports dealt with the Peacock Throne [2] in Persia, with the Shah of Persia, Soraya [3], and Farah Pahlavi; the tabloids called Soraya the "German on the Peacock Throne" because she had a German mother. Once, my family and I were watching an Edgar Wallace crime movie, a black and white movie, on television when my mother remarked, which was supposed to be set in London: "Ah, that's Peacock Island [4]!" And then we heard the calls of the peacocks. Now, these Edgar Wallace movies [5] were the German equivalent of B-movies. They were actually more amusing when viewed with some distance from the time of their shooting. And I remember peacocks that you could see and hear at Meerbusch-Ossum, near the hospital, where I worked as a heumatologist. I was walking through a small thicket when suddenly a peacock stood in a clearing and spread its tail feathers. It squawked and then ran off.

We speak of peacocks, but peafowl would be the correct term; in German, this isn't so noticeable, because there it's called "Pfau" (peacock). Peacock is the masculine form and peahen the feminine form of peafowl, but colloquially, people say "peacock." The Latin pava comes from the Greek taos, which was handed over from the Persian tavus (طاووس), which came from the Tamil word tokei (I've found mayil / மயில் instead) [6]. Peacocks were already mentioned in the Bible, specifically in connection with King Solomon [7].

I made three trips to Sri Lanka in the 1970s and didn't see a single peacock. This surprised me greatly, as we saw peacocks in all the parks — in trees or displaying their plumage — and also at various tourist attractions and historical sites. We visited Wilpattu National Park, Minneriya Park, the vast Yala National Park, and Bundala Park, which is particularly rich in birds, with around 200 species. We saw the Indian peafowl (Pavo cristatus), also known as the blue peafowl, which is native to the Indian subcontinent and thus also to Sri Lanka. Since it has also been introduced to other parts of the world, I even spotted one on the balcony of my hotel in San Pedro de la Atacama, Chile.

What fascinated me most about peacocks on this trip were the warning signs along the highway, cautioning drivers to beware of peacocks crossing the road. Incidentally, over 40 years ago, there were no highways in the south of the country. A road network existed, but the roads were narrow and the busses slow. During the trip, someone had mentioned the book "The Peacock" by Isabel Bogdan, which I read afterwards [8]. I enjoyed it very much, and I've now found another book, "The Peacock Garden" by Anthony Weller [9], which I might read. In any case, the peacocks in Sri Lanka were very interesting and have stayed with me for quite some time, and will continue to do so. I just discovered that the Sri Lankan airline has a peacock in its logo — well, Lufthansa has a crane.

Links and Annotations:
[1] From: William Butler Yeats [1a]: The Peacock.
https://allpoetry.com/The-Peacock
[1a] William Butler Yeats (1865-1939) was an Irish poet, dramatist, writer, and literary critic.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._B._Yeats
[2] The Peacock Throne (تخت طاووس) was a throne made of gold and reportedly 26,733 precious stones, belonging to the Mughal emperors of the Indo-Islamic Mughal Empire in northern India. This Peacock Throne was lost, but the name remained as a synonym for Persia.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfauenthron
[3] Soraya Esfandiary-Bakhtiary (ثریا اسفندیاری بختیاری) was Queen of Persia from 1951 to 1958 through her marriage to Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi; she lived from 1932 to 2001.
Soraya grew up in Berlin and Isfahan; I love both cities.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soraya_Esfandiary_Bakhtiary
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soraya_Esfandiary-Bakhtiary
[4] Peacock Island with Peacock Island Palace is located in the Havel River in southwest Berlin and, since 1990, has been on the list of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, along with the palaces and parks of Sanssouci in Potsdam and others. 
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfaueninsel
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfaueninsel
[5] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar-Wallace-Filme
But please read:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Films_based_on_works_by_Edgar_Wallace#German_Krimi_adaptations
[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_peafowl
[7] In the First Book of Kings: “For the king had a fleet of ships of Tarshish at sea with the fleet of Hiram. “Once every three years the fleet of ships of Tarshish used to come bringing gold, silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks.” 1 Kings 10:22
https://biblehub.com/esv/1_kings/10.htm
[8] Isabel Bogdan: Der Pfau. Kiepenheuer & Witsch, Köln 2016, ISBN: 978-3-462-04800-1.
Isabel Bogdan: The Peacock. Translated by Annie Rutherford. Voland & Quist, Berlin 2021. ISBN: 978-3-863-91293-2.
[9] Anthony Weller: Der Pfauengarten. Translated by Doris Styron. Lichtenberg Verlag, München 1997. ISBN: 9783785281031.
Anthony Weller: The Garden of the Peacocks. Da Capo Press, New York 1998. ISBN: 978-1569246962.

.

Cinnamon and Cardamom in Sri Lanka

Die fischer überliefern dass im süden
Auf einer insel reich an zimmt und öl ...
[The fishermen tell us that in the south
On an island rich in cinnamon and oil ...]
Stefan George

I was just reading the poem by Stefan George from which the two lines above are taken [1] and thought I could write about two of the many spices for which Sri Lanka is known.
These spices include:
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum)
Cardamom / green cardamom pods
Nutmeg & Mace
Turmeric
Curry Leaves
Lemongrass
Black pepper
Cloves

In this blog post, I will focus on the first two, cinnamon and cardamom. This is for personal reasons. Firstly, I remembered three visits to Sri Lanka in the 1970s, when planes still landed at the old airport. Back then, walking from the plane to the terminal meant crossing the tarmac. A mixture of cinnamon and kerosene, along with the heat, would hit you. It was a very typical smell. I was a little disappointed when, after all these years, I landed at the new airport in Sri Lanka and we went straight from the plane into the terminal building, so the particular aroma is no longer there. However, I've developed a close relationship with cinnamon since then. I've also been using cardamom for a very long time, more intensively after my trip to Sikkim three years ago; one of the pictures is from Sikkim. Especially after my trip to Saudi Arabia last autumn, I was able to reconnect with earlier flavor experiences in Jordan, because in the Arab world, cardamom is a spice used, for example, to flavor coffee.

Cardamom plant in Sri Lanka

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum)

Spices from Sri Lanka (taprobane, serendib) reached Greece and the Roman Empire as early as antiquity [2]. In the 14th century, many trade routes for spices passed through Sri Lanka. Later, Portugal, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom sought sea routes to Sri Lanka and other spice islands to break the monopoly held by Arab middlemen.

Cardamom
The name comes from a latinized Greek word, namely καρδάμωμον (kardámōmon) [3], which was formerly used to mean cress [4]. As I learned in Sikkim, the plant is demanding and needs plenty of sunshine, but not too much, and sufficient water. There, Amomum subulatum, which has brown seeds, is more commonly cultivated, while in Sri Lanka Elettaria cardamomum with black seeds is more prevalent. The seeds are used as a spice, but they are left in the pods. Many powders also contain the seed pods, increasing the quantity but not the flavor. Terpenes are responsible for the flavor. Cardamom is expensive.

Cinnamon
Cinnamon is obtained from the inner bark of various trees. Ceylon cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum) originates from Sri Lanka, and this variety has a low coumarin content. Many cinnamon powders are made from cassia, which has a significantly higher coumarin content. The word cinnamon can be traced back to Latin and the Ancient Greek κιννάμωμον (kinnámōmon, later κίνναμον: kínnamon), the Greek being based on a Phoenician word [5]. Cinnamon was already being imported to Egypt 4000 years ago. Cinnamaldehyde is its main component [6] which we smell and taste. Even though it is more expensive and cumbersome, one should buy and use the bark pieces.

Cardamom plant in Sikkim

Links and Annotations:
[1] Stefan George: Der Herr der Insel. In: Die Bücher der Hirten- und Preisgedichte der Sagen und Sänge und der hängenden Gärten. Zweite Ausgabe. Georg Bondi, Berlin 1899. S. 20/21. 
[Stefan George: The Lord of the Island. In: The Books of Pastoral and Praise Poems, Legends and Songs, and the Hanging Gardens. Second Edition. Georg Bondi, Berlin 1899. pp. 20/21.]
The book sells for €190.00 today!
[2] https://lakpura.com/pages/spices?srsltid=AfmBOopT05VmP5EKm60bZXOE-LIdzc820iQPto49S5JJ-Z57afQ5l7DA
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cardamom
[4] Attested in Mycenaean Greek, written in Linear B syllabic script. And I won't write anything now about Michael Ventris, who was instrumental in the first attempts at decipherment.
[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinnamon
[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinnamaldehyde

.

 

Reminiscing Tea from Ceylon (Sri Lanka)

 

“Tea from Ceylon is the best.”

Last year, I wrote in German about a visit to the highlands of Sri Lanka and, in particular, about tea [1]. I would like to present this text in English before my report on a tea plantation and Ceylon tea. At the time, I was looking for a picture from Sri Lanka and came across some I had forgotten about, namely those I had taken in the tea-growing region of Nuwara Eliya. They aren't particularly good photos, as they were taken with a small-format camera without a focus mechanism. But these pictures did prompt me to reflect on that time, and then I decided to write about it. The trip took place around 1976/1977. I was traveling with a Sinhalese friend and a German friend who were looking for a cook in the highlands and found one; I remember a very delicious dish that was also very spicy (hot).

“Tea from Ceylon is the best.” [2] This is a matter for debate, especially with afficionados of Darjeeling tea. William H. Ukers, whose book we will discuss later, would never have made such a sweeping statement. Ceylon is now called Sri Lanka, and this name refers not just since the present day, but after the colonial period. However, in the 1970s, this was still such a new concept that I had to explain to many people in Germany what country Sri Lanka was. However, the old name, Ceylon tea, has persisted.

Nuwara Eliya (Sinhalese: නුවරඑළි and Tamil: நுவரெலியா) is a small town with approximately 25,000 inhabitants today, located in the highlands of Sri Lanka at an altitude of just under 2,000 meters [3]. Samuel Baker, discoverer of Lake Albert and the upper Nile, founded Nuwara Eliya in 1846 because the climate was ideal for a retreat for British officials and plantation owners in Ceylon. It was also known as "Little England." There, the British colonialists could indulge in their now somewhat eccentric pastimes, such as fox, deer, and elephant hunting, as well as polo, golf, and cricket. Nearby is Mount Piduruthalagala, at 2,524 meters the highest mountain in Sri Lanka, though it is now closed to the public. The city maintains its colonial-era architectural style. New buildings (hotels or other tourist facilities) are often constructed in this style. Many private owners still value their lawns and English-style houses. And hydrangeas!

The region is famous for its Orange Pekoe tea, one of the most prized teas in the world. In this cooler mountain region, the tea plant grows slowly, allowing for the development of a more refined aroma.

I recently read through William H. Ukers' book "All About Tea" [4] (again!). The tea industry in Ceylon dates back to 1839. As early as 1840-1842, tea plants were planted on the land of Sir Anthony Oliphant, Chief Justice, near Queens Cottage, Nuwara Eliya (Vol. 1, p. 177). The average temperature there is approximately 15-16°C, and the temperature variation between day and night is greater than on the coast; this is also a factor that influences the composition of a plant's constituents. "Nuwara Eliya escapes the extreme effects of the monsoons, but receives a liberal rainfall." (Vol. 1, p. 422).

Orange Pekoe is not a type of tea but a description of the leaf size in black tea (whole leaves of medium size), and otherwise refers to the unopened tea bud [5]. This doesn't tell us anything about the quality, but it's worth noting that a tea made from whole, medium-sized leaves differs significantly from broken tea leaves or even fannings and dust. Several words from the Chinese language Minnanyu (閩南語) are suggested as the etymology of the word Pekoe: either 白毫 (peh-ho) meaning "white hair" or "white down," or 白花 (peh-hoe) meaning "white flower." I'm inclined to believe the first option, which could refer to the white down on the young tea leaves.

How much does such a tea cost? It's difficult to say, but I'd estimate around €45-50/kg. Many teas on offer are blends, so let's just say you're on a case-by-case basis. Let your taste guide you.

Links and Annotations:
[1] Tea from Nuwara Eliya
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2024/09/tee-aus-nuwara-eliya.html
[2] This sentence appeared in an English textbook from the 1930s. Unfortunately, my father's textbook has not survived.
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuwara_Eliya and https://si.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%B6%B1%E0%B7%94%E0%B7%80%E0%B6%BB%E0%B6%91%E0%B7%85%E0%B7%92%E0%B6%BA as well as
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuwara_Eliya
[4] William H. Ukers: All About Tea, 2 volumes. New York 1935. I borrowed this book once in the 1970s through interlibrary loan at the University Library of Cologne. Anyone wanting to purchase the first edition: https://www.abebooks.com/first-edition/Tea-Ukers-William-H-Coffee-Trade/31072643437/bd for US$2,800.00. It may also be purchased more cheaply, e.g., as a reprint. And it is now available digitally: https://www.univie.ac.at/Geschichte/China-Bibliographie/blog/2018/03/22/ukers-all-about-tea/
[5] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_Pekoe

.

 

Outrigger Boats and Fish Market in Negombo, Sri Lanka

The Wolkenbote (Cloud Messenger) [1] had a really good idea that coped with  jet lag and also made the first day an experience to remember. Immediately after arriving in Sri Lanka that morning, we drove to Negombo, passing a church or school where a service was taking place and many people were gathered in the courtyard. The people were praying. Negombo is predominantly Christian, especially Catholic.

Unlike other regions of Sri Lanka, in Negombo (Sinhala: මීගමුව, romanized: Mīgamuva, Tamil: நீர்கொழும்ப, romanized: Nīrkoḻumpu), 70% of the inhabitants are Christian, with 75% of the population being of Sinhalese descent, approximately 15% belonging to the Moors group (mostly Muslims), and just under 9% being Tamils (mostly Hindus) [2]. When Portugal colonized Sri Lanka in 1505, Negombo was among the first territories to be occupied. To this day, Catholicism predominates in Negombo's population. The Netherlands (1644) and Great Britain (1796) left considerably less of a mark on the religious landscape. Since we're only touching on history briefly, the year 2004 is of interest, because Negombo and its lagoon were only slightly affected by the tsunami; in any case, there were no fatalities.

Then we drove along the lagoon, admiring the boats and herons, and of course, we were taking photos. I was also interested in the Christian statues, which were mostly behind glass. I had to stop when I unexpectedly heard Christian music coming from a bicycle and cycling supply store. Later, I visited one of the many statues of Mary and other saints, and just as I finished taking photos, I spotted three men crossing themselves and praying. I had seen a similar display of piety among Buddhists in front of the dagobas over 40 years ago. Once, I noticed a bus driver let go of the steering wheel to offer his prayer as we drove past the Dagoba of Kalutara (කළුතර).

Then we went to the fish market, locally known as lellama (ලෙල්ලමා). Cats, herons, and crows were scavenging for scraps. The last fish market I had visited was in Jeddah (جدّة), which I wrote about here [3]. It would be a mistake to compare Negombo (population approximately 143,000) with Jeddah (population approximately 3.7 million). Fishing has a long tradition in Negombo, and you can find many types of fish at the market, including tuna, shark, mackerel, and shrimp. Anglers will discover even more. The hustle and bustle of the market kept us from getting tired.

Further towards the quay and the beach, we could see fish laid out on tarpaulins to dry. These were constantly being turned. There were also dogs there. It didn't look very hygienic. Outrigger boats with a single sail could be seen on the water, traveling at 4 knots, as someone remarked. And these are typical for Negombo. According to Wikipedia, there are two types: the Oruwa and the Paruwa. The Oruwa is a traditional, seaworthy outrigger canoe, typical of Negombo. It is estimated that there are still about 3,000 of these boats. [4] The Paruwa is described as a catamaran, but this term actually refers to flat-bottomed boats in the interior of Sri Lanka. The difference between a catamaran and an outrigger boat lies in their structure. The catamaran uses two hulls of equal size, while the outrigger canoe uses one hull and a smaller float. I always thought the word catamaran came from a Polynesian language, but its origin is Tamil! “The word catamaran is a loanword from Tamil, from கட்டுமரம் kaṭṭumaram (from kaṭṭu ‘band, bundle’ and maram ‘tree’, meaning ‘boat made of tied-together tree trunks’).” [5]

After this wonderful start, we continued on to Colombo.

Links and Annotations:
[1] Wolkenbote (Cloud Messenger) is the name of the tour operator, essentially a one-woman operation (Dr. Elvira Friedrichs).
"Cloud Messenger: This is what the Indian poet Kalidasa called his lyrical work, which enjoyed extraordinary popularity. In this poem, a courtier exiled from his homeland commissions a cloud, which is traveling north with all its might, to comfort and greet his beloved who has been left behind. The cloud is to fly over the cities and countries, greeting the friends of the sorrowful man, who himself so longs to set out on a journey through the wondrous landscapes."
https://www.wolkenbote.de/
[2] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negombo and
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negombo
[3] Jeddah's Central Fish Market, Saudi Arabia
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2025/12/jeddahs-central-fish-market-saudi-arabia.html
[4] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oruwa
[5] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katamaran


.