Showing posts with label Tonga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tonga. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 21, 2026

A Journey to the South Pacific – Part 3 – Tonga

 


While looking for some documents, I came across a file from the 1990s containing notes on a trip I took in December 1994. I had previously included some of this material in an employee newsletter [1], but now I feel inspired to translate and expand upon these notes, as well as scan the necessary images.
Here are the details of the trip:
Oct 29 – Dec 15, 1994    Bali / New Zealand / South Pacific Islands
FRA – BKK – DPS – AKL – (WLG) [2] – CHC – AKL – TBU – VAU – TBU – APW – HNL – LAX – FRA




Tonga
The next stop on this journey hs been Tonga. Tonga - what lies behind this name? The Kingdom of Tonga, located in the South Pacific, consists of approximately 170 islands covering a land area of 750 km²; about 45 of these islands are inhabited. All the islands are scattered across an expanse of 700,000 km² of ocean. The capital, Nuku'alofa, is situated on the largest island, Tongatapu. Cologne and Nuku'alofa are approximately 16,685 km apart. The inhabitants of Tonga are Polynesians. Tonga is a constitutional monarchy, modeled after the British system.
Daily temperatures fluctuate between 23°C and 30°C, not much affected by the changing seasons. The rainy season lasts from November to April.
The greater Nuku'alofa area has a population of about 30,000 to 35,000, while Neiafu - the only town on Vava'u - has approximately 4,000 residents. Vava'u is the name of the main island in the archipelago of the same name, located about 300 km north of Tongatapu. The Ha'apai group lies roughly halfway between them. The Niuas - an island group whose inhabitants I had the chance to meet - are located another 300 km north of Vava'u.
In Tonga, there are 420 nursing professionals per 100,000 inhabitants (compared to 1,225 in Germany) and 100 physicians per 100,000 inhabitants (compared to 450 in Germany). The Tongan people are predominantly Christian: the Free Wesleyan Church accounts for 43%, Catholics for 16%, and other denominations for 41%. The national anthem is titled “Koe fasi oe tu'i oe otu Tonga”, which to my surprise translates to: “The piece of the king of Tonga”.


Christian Faith and History
In Western countries, the inhabitants of exotic destinations - such as Tonga - are sometimes wrongly associated with “savages” or “heathens”. This is a completely inaccurate perception. Tonga is inhabited by deeply devout Christians; most probably Germany has more heathens and savages than Tonga. The Sabbath (Sunday) is observed as a day for the Lord, celebrated in the biblical sense. Public transport comes to a complete standstill, and there are no international flights,  unlike in many other countries, where exceptions are made for the sake of tourism. The situation is similar in Samoa. On Sundays, churches in Tonga (as in Samoa) are filled with people, and one can listen to the polyphonic Polynesian hymns. Christian missionary work began with the London Missionary Society; however, initial attempts in 1817 and the following years proved unsuccessful. In 1826, the Wesleyans launched a new effort, which culminated in 1829 with the baptism of seven young men by a group led by Nathaniel Turner. One of these men was the nephew of the young ruler Taufa'ahau, who was himself baptized in 1831 and took the name George (Siaosi). Under his influence, the local population gradually converted to Christianity. During this period, other denominations also began their own missionary activities. King George reigned until 1893, followed by George Tupou II. In 1918, Queen Salote ascended the throne, and her son, Taufa'ahau Tupou IV [4], who passed away in 2006, was only the fourth monarch to reign over a span of more than 150 years.


Blowholes
On the way from Waikiki toward the western part of Oahu, or, for instance, on the island of Kaua, one is often shown a "blowhole" near Hanauma Bay. These formations occur when the sea undermines the lava rock and eventually breaks through to the surface. When the water level and wave conditions are just right, a fountain of water shoots high into the air. Here on Tongatapu, the entire coastline is honeycombed with hollows, and one blowhole follows another.


Beach House
In Nuku'alofa, I stayed at the Beach House, a place recommended by every guidebook I came across. How could anyone choose a luxury hotel over such a charming guesthouse? It was frequently claimed that if W. Somerset Maugham [5] had known about the Beach House, he surely would have stayed there. Perhaps one person came up with this idea and everyone else simply followed suit, but it really does ring true! During the First World War, Maugham spent several months on various Polynesian islands. The impressions he gathered during that time found their way into short stories such as "Mackintosh," "Red," "Honolulu," and "Rain" - arguably his most famous story, which is set in a small guesthouse in Pago Pago (American Samoa) amidst a downpour. I watched the young girls on the veranda as they spent their day - doing a bit of their chores, joking around, braiding each other’s hair, lounging, sleeping, and chatting. The atmosphere on the veranda feels just like something out of one of Maugham’s short stories. When it rains, you can almost feel the spirit of "Rain" in the air, and images from the film adaptation starring Joan Crawford come to mind. From the veranda, you look out over blossoms, palm trees, the sea, and distant islands - though, despite all the South Seas romance, you also see the occasional car driving by. Alternatively, you can cross the street and join the young people playing ball under the palm trees, or sit on the quay wall, laughing and talking. Upon returning from "town" (Nuku'alofa is, in reality, more like a vast village - likely with a larger population than Apia, which, by contrast, has the character of a small town), one is greeted by a tree with red blossoms (a "fire tree" or "crimson glory") standing before the open veranda and the rusty corrugated-iron roof.


Dances in Tonga
In Tonga, too, I attended a tourist-oriented evening. There were dances to watch, songs to hear, and a museum to visit, featuring a meal with traditional dishes. There was also a kava ceremony, consisting of two sips of kava per person, which was more focused on the ritual itself.
The staff from the Visitor’s Bureau were also working in the evening at the Tonga National Center; they expressed their gratitude for the tourists’ visit, as it provided them with employment (quite literally!). I particularly enjoyed the women’s seated dances, which involved many rhythmic hand movements and various styles of clapping.



M.S. Olovaha – The Ferry
I had decided to travel from Nuku'alofa to Vava'u by ferry, a journey of approximately 300 km. There were two ferries to choose from: one nicknamed the "floating coffin" and the other known as "orange vomit." I opted for the "orange vomit", the M.S. Olovaha, which proved to be a seaworthy vessel. As I later learned, the Olovaha was launched in Bremen around 1980.
The M.S. Olovaha set sail a day later than scheduled; one certainly needs a bit of flexibility when embarking on trips like this!
The vastness of the Pacific, with a gentle swell amidst the rain! About an hour after departure, we crossed paths with a cargo ship heading toward Nuku'alofa; it would be the only other vessel we encountered on the open sea during the entire crossing. Occasionally, we encountered seagulls and other seabirds, sailing against the wind through the troughs of the waves.
I had a window seat, and a family had set up camp around me and the space in front of the rows of seats. The area all the way to the emergency exit was packed with crates, suitcases, plants, and other agricultural stock. The family consisted of an elderly gentleman, who suffered from elephantiasis in his right leg, a younger man, two women, a boy, and two girls (listed in the traditional order!). The old man lay down on a massive bed, the kind that brings to mind the command, "Rise, take up your bed, and walk!", wedged between two rows of seats. The women and girls slept on mats in front of a stair railing. Every now and then, they would wake up, turn their heads toward the stairs, and vomit downward. The boy, who was sleeping right in front of the stairs, also vomited down into the same space. In fact, everyone around me seemed to be vomiting from time to time, though there didn't really seem to be any good reason for it. I felt sorry that the descendants of one of the greatest seafarers were suffering so much from seasickness despite the only mild swell, but my own high spirits remained undampened.
By evening, we were anchored off Ha'afeva, an island in the Ha'apai group. The island’s embankment loomed high before us, illuminated by the ship’s spotlights. Small boats circled the “Olovaha” to take on cargo and passengers, though some, it seemed, had simply come out of idle curiosity.
Later that night, amidst a torrential downpour, we docked at Pangai (on the island of Lifuka in the Ha'apai group). Heavy items - tractors, most likely - were unloaded, making the “Olovaha” noticeably lighter. It seemed to me, at least, that this only made it even easier for everyone to vomit. Having experienced seasickness myself on the Irish Sea about 15 years before this trip, I could empathize with the people who were vomiting.
By this time, the people on the aft deck were completely soaked. The tarpaulin over the seating area, torn in places, barely held back the lashing rain. In some spots, the tarp sagged so low that 100 to 150 liters of water had pooled there, waiting to cascade down onto the people below all at once. The cardboard boxes containing goods purchased in Nuku'alofa had become so waterlogged that they tore at the slightest touch. I didn't see how they managed to transport their belongings any further. And actually I was glad, that I went down into the hull instead of staying on deck.
The following morning, we docked in Neiafu (Vava'u) just as the rain let up; I spotted some yachts, though I didn't have any interaction with the sailors. Only minutes after our arrival, another tropical downpour began. Drenched to the bone, I found a guesthouse on a small rise, near the Fangatonga royal residence and the primary school of the same name. As the saying goes, sunshine follows the rain, and that is exactly what happened: the small coral islands, lush with palm green and edged in white sand, floated in a turquoise sea beneath a deep blue sky filled with brilliant, sun-bright clouds.


The Procession
In Neiafu, the day before the King’s visit, I encountered a procession. The participants were heading toward Fangatonga Primary School, the very same route I needed to take to reach the Hamana Lake Guest House. Before I even saw them, I heard their singing and their joyful shouts. Then I saw them in their ceremonial attire, a black “lava-lava”, a white shirt or blouse (instead of a black one), the traditional mat, with fresh pandanus leaves layered over it, and garlands or “leis”, and flowers as further adornment.
The Catholic priest was also traditional in his appearance, though dressed entirely in black. The celebration was held to welcome the new chaplain. A pig and some kava were pulled along on two carts, attached by long ropes.
Early in the evening, from my guesthouse, I could listen to the singing—the school is located right next door. The vowel-rich languages of Polynesia sound particularly pleasant, and even beguilingly beautiful, when sung. The singing was accompanied by clapping, and I was fascinated by the sheer variety of sounds that can be produced just by clapping one’s hands. But then I had to tear myself away from these impressions, as I had already planned to attend another celebration that evening.


Kava
A delightful evening unfolded when I went out to drink kava. The Free Wesleyan Church was hosting this Friday night a kava session to raise funds for a construction project; the end justifies the means. The new church is beautifully situated above the yacht anchorage. We held our gathering in the old church, which now serves as a hall for sports and meetings. The kava session lasted four to five hours.
Before I continue, I must say a few words about kava. Kava is the ritual beverage of the South Pacific. It is sometimes called "kava kava"; on Pohnpei (Micronesia) it is known as "sakau," and in the Fiji Islands, it is referred to as "yaqona." It consists of the root of the kava plant (Piper methysticum) - a type of pepper shrub - which is crushed and softened in water [6].
In the past, the root used to be chewed and then spat into a large communal bowl, but that is no longer done today. The reason for this practice was to create a slightly more potent drink, as the alkaloids are more effectively extracted from the root through the action of salivary enzymes (alpha-amylasis). The German name Rauschpfeffer ("intoxicating pepper") might suggest that Kava is an intoxicant, but that is not the case - unless one were to also classify coffee and tea as intoxicants. Drinking kava fosters a sense of contentment and sociability; it does not lead to aggression or the kind of hangover associated with alcoholic beverages.
Beyond its social role, the plant also has medicinal uses. In Polynesian folk medicine, kava has been employed to treat bronchitis, bladder ailments, rheumatic complaints, and various other conditions.
Returning to the story in Neiafu: I sat with a group gathered around the band. There, I met the school principal, Sayad; the vicar, Makisi; the pastor, Viseka; and others. I discovered that Makisi knew Reverend Jovili in Suva (Fiji), having once been his teacher, a man I had also met during a previous trip to the South Pacific.
We sat in a circle on pandanus mats. To one side stood the kava bowl, which was replenished from time to time from large vats. We passed coconut shells among ourselves, drinking the kava from them.
A three-man band played throughout the evening, with only brief pauses. The three elderly gentlemen played guitar and banjo while singing songs from the South Pacific, songs from Tonga, as well as English-language tracks and songs from Hawai'i, including "Drinking Rum and Coca-Cola" by the Andrews Sisters. It was indescribably beautiful.
As previously mentioned, these Friday gatherings are organized for the purpose of raising funds. Around 100 to 150 men sat together in various groups, talking, laughing, singing along, or simply drinking kava. Later, three or four spirited young women were permitted to join; they were allowed only to serve the kava, a role with which they seemed perfectly content. At the end, Viseka offered a Tongan prayer of thanksgiving, asking that "God bless the givers and the gifts" in reference to the 324 Pa'anga (T$) that had been collected. I still use those same words quite often in our church today, and sometimes, as I do, my thoughts drift back to Vava'u. Afterwards, I made my way through the dark lanes of the small town back to my guesthouse; above me the stars were twinkling and the Magellanic Clouds, and within myself, I felt a sense of joyful contentment. The festivities at the Fangatonga Primary School had also come to an end.



The following day, I flew from Lupepau'u Airport, passing over the small islands and atolls, back to Tongatapu, and a few days later, I continued my journey to Samoa.




Links and Annotations:
[1] The original had been printed in TAU (Magazin der Franziskanerinnen von Münster-St. Mauritz) 1995 and republished with other pictures on my blog:
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2021/10/polynesische-impressionen-eine-reise-in.html 
[2] I forgot -: WLG isn't Weilaghiri [1a], a fictious location, in fact the city of hell, but Wellington, which is hard for airplanes to land because of heavy gales.
[2a] „Wehe uns! Wir sind verloren; denn dies ist Weilaghiri, die Höllenstadt!“ Arno Schmidt [“Woe betide us! We are lost; for this is Weilaghiri, the city of hell!”]
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonga 
[4] Tāufaʻāhau Tupou IV [Siaosi Tāufaʻāhau Tupoulahi] (1918-2006) was King of Tonga from 1965 until his death in 2006. He was previously Prime Minister of Tonga from 1949 to 1965.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C4%81ufa%CA%BB%C4%81hau_Tupou_IV 
[5] William Somerset Maugham (1874-1965) was an English writer. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._Somerset_Maugham 
[6] „Kava or kava kava (Piper methysticum: Latin 'pepper' and Latinized Greek 'intoxicating') is a plant in the pepper family, native to the Pacific Islands. The name kava is from Tongan and Marquesan, meaning 'bitter'.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kava 

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Friday, January 21, 2022

Tonga – from my old Travelogue


The Kingdom of Tonga in the Southern Pacific Ocean consists of 169 island scattered on 700,000 sqkm [1]. Not only Tonga but all the island nations of the South Pacific will satisfy your romantic dreams, but they are prone to disaster at the same time. The submarine volcano Hunga-Tonga-Hunga-Ha'apai shook the Pacific and triggered a tsunami with waves up to 15 meters high, which caused severe destruction in Tonga. [2] Hunga-Tonga-Hunga-Ha'apai lies about 70 km north to northwest of Nuku'alofa (the capital of Tonga) on Tongatapu (the main island).

Blowholes - won't work with a tsunami

I've visited Tonga in 1994. I have already written in German about parts of this journey [3]. I have written about drinking Kava on Vava'u [4] and a giant cockroach there [5]. And now I've taken some extracts from my old travelogue to show you together with some of my old photographs to allow you to compare these with what you see now in the news. I have checked place names against the Lonely Planet guide book I had used in 1994 [6].



26.11.1994
I reached Nuku'alofa at noon and after finding a room at the Beach House, I went through the town. Went to the movies in the evening (The Next Karate Kid and True Lies [actually I've watched this movie about a week ago again]).




27.11. 1994
During the night there had been a heavy downpour. In the morning the sky was still overcast with as few raindrops. I had booked a tour around the island and Stan picked me up at 09:00 a.m.
1. Stop: lagoon.
2. Stop: the point, where Captain Cook had landed, but the tree isn't there anymore (near Holonga [1]).
3. Stop: tombs of the former kings near Mu'a (Lapaha Langi Tombs).
4. Stop: Ha'amonga 'a Maui Trilithon (near Niutoua), a trilithic gate, each stone weighing about 40 tons, which have been brought from Uvea. Onward along small villages and land with scarce settlements.
5. Stop: a normal grave. Then passing the Mormon temple at Liahona.
7. Stop: Kolovai and the flying foxes.
8. Stop: Good Samaritan Inn (western end of Tongatapu). All Malt Royal Premium Beer at the beach. Slight sunburn.
9. Stop: Wesleyan Church.
10. Stop: Royal Palace.



28.11.1994
Researching what to do next. One option would have been Captain Cooks Resort on 'Uoleva. Back then the old copra shacks were rented out. Before showering with a bucket from the well you had to water the pigs, because else the would lick the water off your body. The owner comes every in the morning from Pangai.
I decided to go to Vava'u.
The day had been sunny and I had lots of places to go to: the bank, Air New Zealand, the dock to get a ticket for the ferry (Orange Vomit), Royal Tongan Airlines to fly back; and I remember enjoying to talk with the two ladies there as they and I didn't have much to do.
The rest of the day I've spent wisely - at the wharf.



29.11.1994
Relaxing.
Evening at the Cultural Center.



30.11.1994
Bad rain.
I boarded the ferry to Vava'u.

01.12.1994
I've reached Neiafu on Vava'u around half past ten. It was raining, still ... and heavy. I was soaked and tried to find a hotel as I didn't have any arrangement. The Paradise Hotel and the Vava'u Guest House didn't have vacancies. I've found a small guest house, which had opened only three months earlier - the Hamana Lake Guest House.




02.12.1994
The weather is improving. I went to Maitutau and then to Mt. Talau (131 m). There I've met Charles and some other guys from the Peace Corps, who cleared an overgrown path and wanted to cut a new viewpoint. So I took another path, which was treacherous after the rain. I found some viewpoints and once I climbed tree for a view.
I visited some other viewpoints in the afternoon. One could see the islands: 'Oloua, Mafana, 'Ofu and the smallest island there could be. Again passing the church and then on the track to Fangatongo Primary School I stumbled into a group of people including some Catholic (or Wesleyan?) priests. Maybe there had been a festival as the king had been on the island.
I've spent the evening kava drinking. Makisi, the minister, had been studying with Reverent Jovili in Suwa (Fiji), whom I had met five or six years earlier on Truk (Northern Pacific, Micronesia).

Totally sufficient - bad if it changed much.

03.12.1994
I've missed the king the next day, I've only heard the salute. I went again to Mt. Talau. At noon I went to the airport, then only a shed. And flew on a DeHavilland DHC-6 Twin Otter back to Nuku'alofa. And also back to the Beach House.



04.12.1994
Went to Pangaimotu by ferry and have been alone on the beach. I watched blue starfish, crabs and other colorful sea live in the shallow water or on the beach.



05.12.1994
Heavy rain in the morning but afterwards sunny again. Then another shower and sunshine again. Went to the wharf.


Fishmarket at the wharf

06.12.1994
Went on to Samoa and crossed the dateline. which meant that I had been back to the 5th of December. Wow, I'm a time traveler!


Links and Annotations:
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonga
[2] https://www.sueddeutsche.de/panorama/vulkan-auf-tonga-wir-sind-noch-nicht-ueber-den-berg-1.5512278 Some people doubt the 15 m high tsunami, but remember that the bang of the eruption could be heard in New Zealand (2300 km away [https://www.stern.de/panorama/weltgeschehen/vulkanausbruch-auf-tonga-sorgt-fuer-oelpest-in-peru-31548256.html]) and in Peru (about 10,000 km away) an oil spill has been linked to the high waves caused by the tsunami.
[3] https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2021/10/polynesische-impressionen-eine-reise-in.html
[4] Drinking Kava on Vava'u https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2020/09/drinking-kava-on-vavau.html
[5] Cockroaches  https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2017/07/cockroaches.html
[6] Deanna Swaney: Tonga, a travel survival kit. Lonely Planet, Hawthorn (Australia) 1990. ISBN: 0-86442-077-3.


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Saturday, October 23, 2021

Polynesische Impressionen - Eine Reise in die Südsee

 

Polynesische Impressionen [1] - 

              Eine Reise in die Südsee



Meerbusch-Lank/Tonga

 

Jedes Jahr reise ich in die Ferne, ins ferne Ungewiß. Ich gebe es zu, das Reisen ist mein Laster. Ende 1994 flog ich erneut in die Südsee und ich möchte Ihnen in diesem Artikel ein wenig darüber berichten.
Ich könnte Ihnen von dieser Reise auch über die Feierlichkeiten während des Galungan-Festes und den Bergtempeln Balis, der herrlichen Kathedrale von Christchurch (Neuseeland) , den 52 Kirchen auf dem Weg vom Flughafen Faleolo nach Apia (West Samoa) oder der Kathedrale dort, die man auf einem  Schiff schon aus 20 km Entfernung sehen kann, berichten; aber ich möchte Ihnen   einige Erlebnisse im Königreich Tonga und besonders von der Fahrt zu einer kleinen Insel Tongas schildern.

Tonga
Tonga - was verbirgt sich hinter diesem Namen? Etwa 170 Inseln mit 688 km2 Fläche gehören zum  Königreich Tonga im Südpazifik. Diese Inseln liegen verstreut auf einer Wasserfläche von 362.000 km2 . Die Hauptstadt Nuku'alofa liegt auf der größten Insel, Tongatapu. Köln und Nuku'alofa sind etwa 16.685 km von einander entfernt. Die Bewohner von Tonga sind Polynesier. Tonga ist konstitutionelle Monarchie nach britischem Beispiel und wird seit 1965 von König Taufa'ahau Tupou IV. [2] regiert.
Die Tagestemperaturen schwanken tägl ich zwischen 23-30° C ohne wesentliche jahreszeitliche Änderungen. Die Regenzeit dauert von November bis April.
Nuku'alofa hat etwa 30-35.000 Einwohner und die einzige Stadt auf Vava'u, Neiafu, hat etwa 5.000 Einwohner. Vava'u ist der Name der Hauptinsel der gleichnamigen Inselgruppe, sie liegt etwa 300 km nördlich von Tongatapu. Die Ha'apai-Gruppe liegt etwa auf halbem Weg. Die Niuas - ich lernte Bewohner dieser Inselgruppe kennen  - liegen nochmals 300 km nördlich von Vava'u.

Auf Tonga kommt eine Krankenschwester/Pfleger auf 463 Einwohner (Deutschland l:130) und auf einen Arzt/Ärztin kommen 2.380 Einwohner (Deutschland 1:377). Die Tonganer sind vorwiegend Christen, die Freien Wesleyaner machen 43%, die Katholiken 16% und andere Konfessionen 41% au . Die Nationalhymne heißt: „Koe fasi oe tu'i oe otu Tonga".

Christlicher Glaube und Geschichtliches
Im westlichen Ausland werden mit exotischen Reisezielen, wie es Tonga nun einmal ist, die Einwohner mit Wilden oder Heiden assoziiert. Das ist eine völlig verkehrte Vorstellung. Tonga wird von sehr gläubigen Christen bewohnt. Der Sabbat/Sonntag ist ein Fest des Herrn und wird im biblischen Sinne gefeiert. Der öffentliche Verkehr liegt brach und es gibt auch keine internationalen Flüge; in anderen Ländern macht man an dieser Stelle Zugeständnisse an den Tourismus. Übrigens ist es in Samoa ähnlich. Die Kirchen in Tonga (wie auch in Samoa) sind sonntags voll und man kann den melodischen polynesischen Chorälen lauschen. Die christliche Missionierung begann mit der Arbeit der London Missionary Society. Die ersten Versuche 1817 und in den Jahren darauf waren nicht fruchtbar. 1826 starteten die Wesleyaner einen neuen Versuch, der 1829 mit dem Erfolg einer Taufe von sieben jungen Männern durch die Gruppe um Nathanial Turner
gekrönt wurde. Einer dieser Männer war derNeffe des jungen Herrschers Taufa'ahau, der 1831  getauft wurde und den Namen George (Siaosi) annahm. Unter seinem Einfluß wurden nach und nach die Bewohner konvertiert. Zu dieser Zeit begannen auch andere Konfessionen zu missionieren. König George regierte übrigens bis 1893, dann kam George Tupou II., 1918 bestieg Königin Salote den Thron und ihr Sohn Taufa'ahau Tupou IV. ist erst der vierte Regent seit über 150 Jahren.



Von Nuku'alofa nach Vava'u
In Nuku'alofa wohnte ich im Beach House, einem kleinen Gasthaus. Hätte der englische Dichter W. Somerset Maugham das Beach House gekannt, dort hätte er sich einquartiert. Maugham (1874- 1965) verbrachte während des 1.Weltkrieges einige Monate auf verschiedenen polynesischen Inseln. Die Impressionen dieser Zeit finden sich wieder in Kurzgeschichten wie „Mackintosh“, „Red“, Honolulu“ oder „Rain“, der wohl berühmtesten Geschichte, die in einem kleinen Gasthaus in Pago Pago (Amerikanisch Samoa) während des Regens spielt. Auch ich erlebte den Regen von der Veranda des Beach Houses aus. Die Atmosphäre von den Kurzgeschichten Maughams insbesondere von „Rain“, schwang mit und ich erinnerte mich an Bilder aus der Verfilmung mit Joan Crawford (1934).
Während des Regens verbrachten die Töchter der Wirtsleute auch den Tag auf der Veranda mit ein wenig Arbeit, Scherzen, Haare flechten, Liegen, Nachmittagsschlaf oder Schwatzen. Von der Veranda blickt man auf Blüten, Palmen, Meer und Inseln; und trotz aller Südseeromantik auch auf die  vorbeifahrenden Autos.
Oder man geht über die Straße und setzt sich zu den Jungen, die unter den Palmen Ball spielen oder auf der Kaimauer sitzen und lachen und reden. Wenn man aus der Stadtmitte (Nuku' lofa ist eigentlich mehr ein riesiges Dorf) zurückkommt, wird man von einem Baum mit roten Blüten (Fire Tree oder Crimson Glory) vor der offenen Veranda und dem rostigen Welldach empfangen. Wie kann jemand nur auf so etwas für ein Luxusklasse-Hotel verzichten?
Ich hatte beschlossen, von Nuku'alofa nach Vava'u mit der Fähre zu reisen; es handelt sich dabei um eine Strecke von ungefähr 300 km. Zwei Fährschiffe standen zur Verfügung: das eine hatte den Spitznamen „floating coffin“ (schwimmender Sarg) und das andere wurde „orange vomit“ (orange Kotze) genannt. Ich wählte die orange Kotze, die M.S. Olovaha, die sich als hochseetüchtiges Schiff erwies. Wie ich später erfuhr, ist die Olovaha ca. 1980 in Bremen vom Stapel gelaufen.
Einen Tag später, als der Fahrplan auswies, stach die M.S. Olovaha in See; ein wenig Flexibilität sollte man schon bei solchen Reisen mitbringen!   
Die Weite des Pazifiks und ein leichter Wellengang im Regen! Etwa eine Stunde nach der Abfahrt kam uns ein Frachtschiff entgegen, das Nuku'alofa ansteuerte; es sollte die einzige Begegnung mit einem Schiff auf hoher See während der gesamten Überfahrt bleiben. Manchmal begegneten uns Möwen und andere Seevögel, die in den Wellentälern gegen den Wind segelten.

Überfahrt
Ich hatte einen Fensterplatz und eine Familie, die noch weiter als Vava'u unterwegs war, saß um mich herum und den Platz vor den Sitzreihen. Um den Notausgang war alles voll gestellt mit Kisten, Koffern, Blumen, Saatgut und anderen Dingen mehr. Die Familie bestand aus einem alten Herrn, der unter Elefantiasis des rechten Beines litt, einem jüngeren Mann, seiner Frau und seiner  Schwester, einem Jungen und zwei Mädchen. Der alte Herr legte sich auf eine riesige Bettstatt zwischen zwei Sitzreihen. Die Frauen und Mädchen schliefen auf Matten vor einem Treppengeländer.
Da die Fähren nur alle vier bis sechs Wochen über Vava'u hinaus die nördlichen Inseln (Niuas) anlaufen, mußten sie ihr Bettzeug für den Aufenthalt auf Tongatapu mitnehmen. Die Niuas liegen nochmals ungefähr 300 km von Vava'u entfernt.
Ab und zu wachten die Frauen auf, drehten sich mit dem Kopf zur Treppe hin und kotzten nach unten; Sie erinnern sich noch an den Spitznamen? Der Junge schlief direkt vor der Treppe und kotzte auch hinunter. Irgendwie erbrachen sich alle um mich herum, dann und wann. Es tat mir leid, daß die Nachfahren der größten Seefahrer bei der leichten Dünung so unter der Seekrankheit litten, aber meine gehobene Stimmung wurde dadurch nicht gedämpft.
Abends lagen wir vor Ha'afeva, einer Insel der Ha'apai-Gruppe. Hoch ragte uns die Böschung der Insel im Scheinwerferlicht des Schiffes entgegen. Kleine Boote fuhren um die Olovaha herum und übernahmen Ladung und Passagiere. Manche aber kamen  nur aus Neugier.
Später in der Nacht legten wir bei Wolkenbruch in Pangai (Lifuka / Ha'apai) an. Dort wurden schwere Gegenstände, wahrscheinlich Traktoren, entladen, so daß die Olovaha merklich leichter wurde. Die Leute auf dem Achterdeck waren mittlerweile völlig durchgeweicht. Die teilweise zerrissene Plane über den Sitzen hielt kaum den peitschenden Regen zurück. An manchen Stellen beulte sich die Plane weit nach unten, so daß sicherlich 100-150 Liter Wasser darauf  warteten, sich mit einem Mal auf die Menschen zu ergießen. Die Pappkartons mit den Einkäufen aus Nuku'alofa waren so aufgequollen, daß sie bei der geringsten Berührung zerrissen. Ohne Regen legten wir am nächsten Vormittag in Neiafu (Vava'u) an. Jedoch kam schon wenige Minuten später der nächste tropische Wolkenbruch. Triefend vor Nässe fand ich ein Gasthaus auf einer kleinen Anhöhe - in der Nähe der königlichen Residenz Fangatonga und der gleichnamigen Grundschule. Auf Regen folgt  bekanntlich Sonnenschein, und so war es auch: die kleinen Koralleninseln schwammen palmengrün mit sandweißem Saum im türkisfarbenen Meer unter einem tiefblauen Himmel mit sonnenweißen  Wolkenburgen.



Heißet den neuen Kaplan willkommen!
In Neiafu begegnete ich am Tag vor dem Besuch des Königs einem Festzug. Die Teilnehmer zogen in Richtung Fangatonga Primary School, waren also auf dem Weg, den auch ich zum Hamana Lake Guest House nehmen mußte. Zunächst hörte ich sie singen. Dann sah ich sie in ihrer Festkleidung: schwarzer Lavalava („Sarong“, Wickeltuch), weißes anstatt schwarzes Hemd oder Bluse, die tradtionelle Matte (Ta'ovala), darüber frische Pandanusblätter und Girlanden oder Leis und Blumen als weiterer Schmuck. Auch der katholische Pfarrer war in Schwarz und einem Ta'ovala gekleidet, der Tradition des Landes und der Kirche folgend. Das Fest wurde zum Empfang des neuen Kaplans durchgeführt. Auf zwei Karren wurden ein Schwein und Kava an langen Seilen von den  Teilnehmern gezogen.
Am frühen Abend konnte ich von meinem Gasthaus den Gesängen lauschen, da die Schule in direkter Nachbarschaft liegt. Die vokalreichen Sprachen Polynesiens klingen im Gesang besonders angenehm und auch betörend schön. Der Gesang wurde durch Klatschen begleitet und dabei faszinierte mich, wie viele unterschiedliche Töne man durch Klatschen hervorbringen kann. Aber dann mußte ich mich von diesen Eindrücken lösen, denn ich hatte für den Abend bereits geplant, an einem anderen Fest teilzunehmen.

Die Kava-Runde am Freitagabend
Was für ein herrlicher Abend tat sich mir auf! Die Free Wesleyan Church veranstaltete dieses freitägliche Kava-Trinken, um Geld für ein Bauvorhaben zusammen zu bekommen; der Zweck heiligt die Mittel. Die neue Kirche liegt oberhalb der Anlegestelle für die Yachten in schöner Lage. Wir feierten in der alten Kirche, die mittlerweile zur Turn- und Versammlungshalle umfunktioniert worden war. [3]

Kava
Bevor ich fortfahre, muß ich einige Worte über Kava einfügen. Kava ist das rituelle Getränk der Südsee. Manchmal wird es Kavakava genannt, auf Pohnpei (Mikronesien) heißt es Sakau und auf den Fiji-Inseln bezeichnet man das Getränk als Yagona. Es handelt sich dabei um die zerkleinerte und in Wasser aufgeweichte Wurzel des Rauschpfefferstrauches (Piper methysticum).
Früher wurde die Wurzel zerkaut und in die große Gemeinschaftsschale gespuckt, aber das macht man heute nicht mehr. Der Grund für diese Praxis war ein etwas stärkeres Getränk, da die Alkaloide durch die Speichelenzyme (alpha-Amylase) besser aus der Wurzel gelöst werden. Der Name Rauschpfeffer läßt an ein Rauschmittel denken, aber das ist Kava nicht; es sei denn, man ordnet Kaffee und Tee auch den Rauschmitteln zu. Kava-Trinken macht zufrieden und gesellig, aber es kommt nicht zu Aggressivität oder einem Kater wie bei alkoholischen Getränken.
Neben dem geselligen Aspekt gibt es noch den medizinischen Gebrauch der Pflanze. In der polynesischen Volksmedizin wurde Kava gegen Bronchitis, Blasenerkrankungen, rheumatische Beschwerden und weitere mehr eingesetzt.
Aber nun zurück zur eigentlichen Gesch chte: ich saß in der Gruppe, die sich um die Band geschart hatte. Dabei lernte ich den Direktor der Schule, Sayad, den Vikar, Makisi, den Pfarrer, Viseka, und andere mehr kennen. Wir saßen auf Pandanus-Matten im Kreis.
An einer Seite stand d ie Kava-Schüssel,  ie ab und an aus großen Bottichen nachgefüllt wurde. Wir reichten uns gegenseitig die Kokos-Schalen herum, aus denen wir Kava tranken.



Musik
Eine dreiköpfige Band spielte den ganzen Abend. Die drei alten Herren spielten Gitarre und Banjo und sangen dazu. Lieder aus dem Süd-Pazifik, Lieder aus Tonga, aber auch englische oder solche  aus Hawaii. Die Stimmung war ausgelassen und alle erfreuten sich an der Musik und den Gesprächen mit Freunden. Obwohl man von der Größe der Veranstaltung an ein Bierzelt erinnert wurde, fehlten hier doch die aggressiven Zecher und der abstoßende Lärm.

Spenden
Diese Freitags-Gesellschaften kommen, wie erwähnt, zur Geldbeschaffung zustande. Etwa 100-150 Männer saßen in verschiedenen Gruppen zusammen und redeten, lachten, sangen mit oder tranken nur Kava. Später wurde das Eindringen von zwei bis vier jungen Frauen, wohl ein Zugeständnis an die Emanzipation der Frau, die im Rahmen des Kulturwandels nun gemächlich Einzug in Tonga hält, geduldet. Sie teilten nur Kava aus und tranken nicht selbst. Das Kavatrinken dauerte etwa vier bis fünf Stunden. Zum Schluß sprach Viseka, der Pfarrer, ein tonganisches Ge­bet zum Dank („Gott segne Geber und Gaben!“) für die 324 Tonga-Dolla r (Pa'anga), die gespendet worden waren. Danach ging ich durch die dunklen Gassen der Kleinstadt zu meinem Gasthaus, über mir standen die Sterne und die Magellan'schen Wolken und in mir war eine fröhliche Zufriedenheit. Auch bei der Fangatonga Grundschule war das Fest zu Ende.

Am nächsten Tag flog ich vom Lupepau'u Flughafen über die kleinen Inseln und Atolle wieder zurück nach Tongatapu und einige Tage darauf weiter nach Samoa, wo die Kirchen und Kathedra len der Dörfer zwischen dem Flughafen und Apia einen unauslöschlichen Eindruck hinterließen [4]. Aber darüber wollte ich ja nicht berichten, auch nicht im Licht der Seifenoper „Flucht ins  Paradies“ (ZDF), denn das ist eine andere Geschichte.




Anmerkungen und Links:

[1] Den Artikel hatte ich bei den Unterlagen meiner Eltern gefunden. Ich hatte ihn 1995 für die Mitarbeiter-Zeitschrift TAU (Magazin der Franziskanerinnen von Münster-St. Mauritz) geschrieben, also noch vor der Umwandlung der Hospitalgesellschaften in die Franziskus-Stiftung https://www.st-franziskus-stiftung.de/startseite.html. Ich habe den Artikel eingescannt. Die Bilder waren schwarz-weiß, ich habe aber die Originale nochmals eingescannt.
[2] Taufa'ahau Tupou IV. ist mittlerweile verstorben. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taufa%CA%BBahau_Tupou_IV. Aktuell ist Tupou VI., der jüngste Sohn von Tupou IV. König von Tonga. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tupou_VI.
[3] Ich hatte im vorigen Jahr nochmals darüber berichtet, auf Englisch: Drinking Kava on Vava'u
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2020/09/drinking-kava-on-vavau.html
[4] Mehr darüber auf Englisch hier: When I had to Dance on Samoa
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2020/09/when-i-had-to-dance-on-samoa.html Ich tanzte zusammen mit dem Vize-Premierminister!


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Saturday, September 26, 2020

Drinking Kava on Vava'u

On boarding the "Orange Vomit"

Some drink rum and Coca-Cola, others drink kava. Where is Vava'u? What is kava? I'll tell you an old travel yarn as I visited Tonga 26 years ago.

So Vava'u belongs to Tonga. I had been staying in a small guest house in Nuku'alofa on the main island Tongatapu; the island sees some yachties because of the natural harbor. One afternoon it had been raining and guests and the daughters of the guest house where siting on the porch looking onto the surf. While the girls where arranging their hair, I was reading in the Lonely Planet guidebook. I realized that I had two choices to get by boat to Vava'u: the Floating Coffin or the Orange Vomit as the ferries were nicknamed. Vava'u is a Tongan island about 400 km North.

 
Unloading at Pangai

I took the Orange Vomit. The nickname comes from the orange paint of the ship and … wait until we cross the open sea. I dashed on board and had been lucky to get a seat next to a Tongan gentleman suffering from elephantiasis, most probably caused by Wuchereria bancrofti, which is a human parasitic worm. I didn't take a seat on deck, which could have been more romantic, but with the weather forecast predicting rain, the deck could be wet. It took about 24 hours to get to Vava'u. The sea had been rough and most everyone excluding myself vomited; I had doped myelf and didn't eat on board. In the evening we stopped at the island Ha'afeva and in the middle of the night at Pangai on Lifuka Island, where agricultural equipment had been unloaded, which made the vessel lighter and therefore the rolling increased. When we reached Vava'u the rain hadn't stopped, so part of the fields and meadows had been inundated. The people on deck were all soaked to the skin. Moreover they had can and other provisions in cartons, which were useless now. Later I had been soaked to the skin, too.

 The Orange Vomit in the natural habor of Vava'u
Note the color of the water caused by the heavy rains
 
I've found a small guest house to stay and after installing and drying myself I asked the landlady, where I could drink kava. She said there could be a chance on the following evening.

Kava is made from the root of piper methysticum. The root is grinded and soaked in water and later passed through cloth. The drink has sedative, anesthetic, and euphoriant properties; a bit like beer but with the hangover. The word kava is Tongan as well Marquesan and means bitter; Hawaiian is 'awa, Samoan is 'ava, but in Fiji (Melanesia) it's called yaqona, on Vanuatu (also Melanesia) malok, and in Pohnpei (Polynesian exclave in Micronesia) it's called sakau. Moderate consumption of kava as a water-based suspension of kava roots has a low level of health risk. Extraction of the root with organic solvents to produce exportable herbal medicines lead to health concerns because of skin rashs and hepatotoxicity, which for instance caused a ban in Germany during the early 2000s.



The next day came and I went to the hall, where the evening meeting was taking place. It had been organized by the Wesleyan church. I sat with Sayad, the principal of the school, Makisi, the minister, and Viseka, and the Chief Minister ot the Free Wesleyan Church on Vava'u; no other foreigner, yachties don't go there. We were drinking kava and talked or listened to the music. The combo of two guitar players and one banjo player were performing songs of the pacific, also Hawaiian songs and even Rum and Coca-Cola. I found out that Makisi knows Reverent Jovili on Suwa (Fiji), whom I had met during an other trip to the Pacific, as Rev. Jovili had been his teacher. A very cheerful evening, which I still like to recall.




During the next days I took a plane back to Nuku'alofa, where I had left my baggage, and from where I flew out to Samoa later.


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Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Cockroaches





Noon! We were sitting in the kitchen and talking about travels and somehow cockroaches got in to our focus. Anyone having travelled in the tropics or subtropics knows to tell a few stories about encounters with cockroaches.

If any creature should survive man made havoc it’s the cockroach. Some species of cockroach can reach a length of 9 cm. Cockroaches are social insects [1]. “Gregarious cockroaches display collective decision-making when choosing food sources.” Cockroaches can go without food for long periods and even live on the glue of wallpaper. Some nymphs survive frost. Some species may go without breathing for 45 minutes. And Wikipedia tells us, that “experiments on decapitated specimens of several species of cockroach found a variety of behavioral functionality remained, including shock avoidance and escape behavior”. As cockroaches may survive 6-15 times the lethal dose of radiation for humans, they might inherit the earth after a nuclear war. Maybe we are already on the brink of a nuclear war ("If we have nuclear weapons why can't we use them?") and would find out that the world’s leaders are brothers of Edgar the Bug [2].

Attention!   
Be warned! 
From here on, you will continue to read at your own risk!

Five Star Hotel in Singapore
I stayed in a very ritzy hotel in Singapore some when in the late 70ies. I had been travelling through South East Asia under conditions of lesser cleanliness. The hotel had been superb. They sprayed the corridors daily. But one day when walking to my room I saw cockroaches leaving a tray on the ground to escape into all kinds of crevices and cracks.

My friend’s roommate
I paid a visit to a friend’s room in the newly built TIYAC in Taipei (Tapei Youth Activity Center). And while we were talking about intricacies of the Chinese language, I’ve heard a faint scratching from behind a book shelf. I asked my friend about this sound and she replied: “Oh, that’s roachy, my roommate.”

A Drawer in Manila
Before visiting Yap, Truk, Pohnpei, and Palau, I stayed in Manila for a few days. I had booked a good hotel from Germany, because I was just starting my trip exploring the islands of Micronesia. I wanted to leave some papers in one of the drawers of the writing desk, but decided to better use my suitcase as the drawer was full of mummified cockroaches. I collected the cockroaches in an envelope, which I opened at the front desk, when I left the hotel for good.

The Giant Roach in Vava’u
One of my travels to the South Pacific had been to Tonga. I decided to take the ferry from Nuku’alofa to Vava’u. I took the Orange Vomit instead of the Floating Coffin as the two ferries were nicknamed. On Vava’u I had a humble room with a door that had an open space of 10 cm width at the bottom part of the door. One evening I saw a giant cockroach circling a light bulb in front of my room. During the night I’ve heard a scratching and even without light, I knew what was happening. This giant cockroach had entered the room and was trying to bite through the wrapping of plain cookies. I shooed the cockroach away and stashed the cookies in a tight drawer.
OT: I remember another evening drinking kava and sitting together with locals listening to music from the South Pacific, which was played and sung by three old men.

Two is Company
One of the summers when I’ve been working and studying at the Tri-Service General Hospital in Taipei, I was staying at the home of friends. They had a fan blowing fresh air into the apartment. Suddenly there had been a crashing sound as a cockroach flew through the fan. You might know the saying “that’s when the shit hit the fan”, but it was different. The cockroach landed on the ground in two halves. The larger half was trying to move away.

After a Tropical Downpour
Another time in Taipei, it must have been the late seventies or early eighties. I had been watching a movie in one of the theaters in the city center. In between I’ve heard loud thunder and the sounds of a heavy downpour. When I left the cinema the street had been under water and literally millions of drowning cockroaches were trying to escape out of the sewerage. But shopkeepers were battering on the cockroaches and spraying bug spray that was so toxic that these are forbidden worldwide today. Some cockroaches escaped, none the less.

How to Enjoy Roasted Roaches
One of my Chinese friends had studied medicine in Cologne. While visiting her in Taipei – she had become a gynecologist – we were talking about strange foods. And she told me about her brother, who was quite daring in this respect. Now, the Chinese ask you sometimes: 你敢不敢吃? Do you dare to eat it? Well, the elder brother caught some very small cockroaches and reared them. So these cockroaches didn’t have the chance to accumulate toxic substances. And then he roasted them in the wok. That was a couple of years before I decided to become a vegetarian. Back then I would have dared it, but he already had terminated the experiment.
Stir-fried Cockroaches (红炒蟑螂)
Heat the wok, add soy oil and a few drops of sesame oil, toss in a chopped red hot chili pepper and chopped garlic, stir for half a minute, then add the dried cockroach bodies, stir-fry for a minute, then add soy sauce, MSG, and just a little water, reduce heat, cover with a lid, let it simmer for 1-2 minutes, reheat and add chopped spring onions, stir-fry for another minute.
Serve hot and enjoy.


Links:

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