I decided to write about “Bullerbü” in Khustain Nuruu National Park (Хустайн байгалийн цогцолборт газар) because I had already done some preliminary work on the subject in a different context, which subsequently turned into a blog post - Chapter 20 - of my Tiny House project [1]. You won't find “Bullerbü” by searching or “Буллербү” either, as it is neither a place name nor the official name of any camp in Mongolia. So, where does the name Bullerbü come from? It originates from Astrid Lindgren’s children's books set in a place called Bullerbü [2]; because the little houses reminded someone of Sweden and their own childhood (thanks to their red paintwork), they gave this remote camp the nickname “Bullerbü”. Since the location is hard to find, I have marked it on Google Maps [3]. This is the only camp in Khustain Nuruu National Park; like the research building and, of course, the official entrance, it is part of the park itself. I will discuss the “Takhi” (тахи) - or Przewalski’s horse, a species of wild horse - only in the context of Bullerbü, as I intend to write a separate piece about the Przewalski’s horse later.
This overview provides a purely schematic representation of the layout. The sides of the triangle are approximately 10 km long, and the cardinal directions are fairly accurate. The depicted extent of Khustain Nuruu National Park is not precise. If you move east from Camp Bullerbü on Google Maps, you will find a marked viewpoint after about 6 km, and - roughly 4 km further east - the research facility and a few “gers”. The park entrance is located about 10 km to the northwest.
The park is famous for the last surviving species of wild horse: the Przewalski’s horse, known in Mongolian as the “Takhi” (тахи). It was named after the Russian geographer and explorer of Polish descent, Nikolai Mikhailovich Przewalski (Никола́й Миха́йлович Пржева́льский), who lived from 1839 to 1888. He died of typhus near Karakol on Lake Issyk-Kul (Kyrgyzstan); the small settlement had been renamed "Przhevalsk" by the Tsar and is now part of the town of Karakol. Today, there is a museum there featuring numerous exhibits - including documents, his passport, and other personal items - that belonged to Przewalski. I visited the museum in 2014 and 2016, and since my first visit, I had been keen to see Przewalski's horse [4]. I am digressing again.
Because the last surviving species of wild horse can be seen there - and Ulaanbaatar (Улаанбаатар) is within easy reach - the park attracts many tourists, and there are plenty of “ger” camps nearby.
I have stayed at Camp Bullerbü during two of my three trips through Mongolia and prefer it to the large - and, frankly, ugly - “ger” camp at the park entrance. This applies even when rain and muddy tracks force you to drive around the mountains - a detour of about 40 km - whereas, in dry conditions, you could drive over the hills. You can view the track leading up the mountain from the east side of "Bullerbü" on Google Maps.
I cannot say for certain whether the house and “gers” at the eastern corner of the triangle constitute a research facility; they could also be accommodation for park rangers. However, the fact that the house is made of stone or concrete suggests year-round research activity, whereas "Bullerbü" is not habitable year-round - with the exception of the “gers” belonging to the family that lives there and maintains the small houses.
Camp Bullerbü sees few visitors, as it was not designed as tourist accommodation. The cabins were built for researchers. Inside, there are beds and a basic table. Electricity is available only when the generator is running; usually, you use a camping lantern. There are no sanitary facilities inside the cabins; the existing toilets are separate outhouses with open-air urinals and open washbasins, while the showers are roofed. Hot/warm water is available if the sun is shining. There are several of these tiny cabins - two with multiple rooms and a meeting house (longhouse) with tables and chairs for dining. Additionally, one cabin serves as a dormitory.
Traces of red exterior paint are still visible, explaining the name “Bullerbü”. I estimate the floor area of the small cabins to be around 3x3 meters, providing enough space for two beds and luggage to fit comfortably. In their current state, they are suitable for sleeping - or perhaps having a beer if it rains - though you are actually better off outside, especially when horses wander through the camp in the evening. I do not know if there is insulation between the outer wall and the pressed-wood interior wall. Since the tiny cabin lacks a stove, I assume it was built without insulation and is intended only for summer use. The roof kept the rain out - I experienced rainy weather in 2023 - and I slept well both times. The construction seems simple enough to allow such a tiny cabin to be built in remote locations to be able to set it up.
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| Through binoculars |
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| Horses to compare |
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| Przewalski’s horse |
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| Purebreds? I doubt it! |
It was in 2023 that horses galloped through the camp and stood right next to the children. I had been told that, prior to the establishment of the national park, the local nomadic herders were informed and compensated to ensure that horses would not come near the park. However, this was likely not fully enforceable, and it is impossible to monitor the herds effectively; consequently, the horses passing through the camp were probably not purebred Przewalski's horses. I believe one can actually see the difference, though I am no horse expert.
What advice can be given to a Takhi enthusiast? Definitely make the trip and hope for dry weather; that way, you can observe the horses from very close range - otherwise, you would have to rely on binoculars. I would try to book a camp south of the park, or perhaps Camp Bullerbü.
