A Visit at Lamayuru Gompa

Long ago I've read a book by Wilhelm Filchner with the title „Bismillah!“. He had reached Leh and afterwards Lamayuru after a long journey from China to Srinagar. This was the first time I've heard about Lamayuru Gompa. There's even a picture in the book. Wilhelm Filchner (1877–1957) was a German army officer, scientist and explorer [2]. In between 1934 to 1938, Filchner followed a route across northern Tibet from Lanzhou to Leh and onwards to Srinagar. He collected magnetic data for Lufthansa, because the Tibetan plain is largely devoid of natural geographical features, so pilotes could navigate without sight (and GPS). Shortly before talking about Lamayuru he tells about a telegram by Goebbels and von Neurath congratulating him. Let's not make it worse than it is – 1934-1938 he had been exploring in Central Asia, 1939 he went to Nepal and from there to India, where he spent the war in light internment. 

 

Page of W. Filchner's book in German showing Lamayuru Gompa

Lamayuru is about 125 km west of Leh. In the valley you see fertile areas but also a moon like landscape [3] with undulating rock formations. Lamayuru Gompa has been build in the 11th century. It is the main seat of the Drikung Kagyu tradition with more then 50 monasteries. About 300 monks are registered under the administration of Lamayuru Gompa [4]. 


 
       The surface of the moon on earth

Let us go back to the 11th century, into the legendary part of history. After Mahasiddha Naropa (1016–1100) had spent a long time in retreat, the great translator Rinchen Zangpo (958–1055) [5] built five temples at Lamayuru. The monastery is on the top of cliff overlooking Lamayuru Valley [6]. The main building is likely to be of the 16th century. The jokhang (meeting hall) is younger. 

 

The swastika had been a religious symbol long before the Nazis 

 

Three pilgrims

 

Golden prayer wheels in the wall 

Prayers are released into the world

by turning

The visit is impressive, but don' forget the landscape and the nearby Fatu Pass, which Filchner had to cross to get to Srinagar.  

 

Chörten containing ashes and relics

 

 

Old, stained wall pictures

 

 

Correct anatomy doesn't play a role

 

Landscape from Fatu Pass

Links and References:

[1] Filchner, Wilhelm: Bismillah! Vom Huang-ho zum Indus. F.A. Brockhaus, Leipzig 1938.

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilhelm_Filchner

[3] Mattausch, Jutta: Ladakh und Zanskar (Reiseführer) (Deutsch). 2017.

[4] https://lamayuru.com/

[5] Alexander Gardner, "Rinchen Zangpo," Treasury of Lives, accessed July 08, 2020, http://treasuryof lives.org/biographies/view/Rinchen-Zangpo/10199.

[6] https://www.thrillophilia.com/attractions/lamayuru-monastery

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