“Tea from Ceylon is the best.”
Last year, I wrote in German about a visit to the highlands of Sri Lanka and, in particular, about tea [1]. I would like to present this text in English before my report on a tea plantation and Ceylon tea. At the time, I was looking for a picture from Sri Lanka and came across some I had forgotten about, namely those I had taken in the tea-growing region of Nuwara Eliya. They aren't particularly good photos, as they were taken with a small-format camera without a focus mechanism. But these pictures did prompt me to reflect on that time, and then I decided to write about it. The trip took place around 1976/1977. I was traveling with a Sinhalese friend and a German friend who were looking for a cook in the highlands and found one; I remember a very delicious dish that was also very spicy (hot).
“Tea from Ceylon is the best.” [2] This is a matter for debate, especially with afficionados of Darjeeling tea. William H. Ukers, whose book we will discuss later, would never have made such a sweeping statement. Ceylon is now called Sri Lanka, and this name refers not just since the present day, but after the colonial period. However, in the 1970s, this was still such a new concept that I had to explain to many people in Germany what country Sri Lanka was. However, the old name, Ceylon tea, has persisted.
Nuwara Eliya (Sinhalese: නුවරඑළි and Tamil: நுவரெலியா) is a small town with approximately 25,000 inhabitants today, located in the highlands of Sri Lanka at an altitude of just under 2,000 meters [3]. Samuel Baker, discoverer of Lake Albert and the upper Nile, founded Nuwara Eliya in 1846 because the climate was ideal for a retreat for British officials and plantation owners in Ceylon. It was also known as "Little England." There, the British colonialists could indulge in their now somewhat eccentric pastimes, such as fox, deer, and elephant hunting, as well as polo, golf, and cricket. Nearby is Mount Piduruthalagala, at 2,524 meters the highest mountain in Sri Lanka, though it is now closed to the public. The city maintains its colonial-era architectural style. New buildings (hotels or other tourist facilities) are often constructed in this style. Many private owners still value their lawns and English-style houses. And hydrangeas!
“Tea from Ceylon is the best.” [2] This is a matter for debate, especially with afficionados of Darjeeling tea. William H. Ukers, whose book we will discuss later, would never have made such a sweeping statement. Ceylon is now called Sri Lanka, and this name refers not just since the present day, but after the colonial period. However, in the 1970s, this was still such a new concept that I had to explain to many people in Germany what country Sri Lanka was. However, the old name, Ceylon tea, has persisted.
Nuwara Eliya (Sinhalese: නුවරඑළි and Tamil: நுவரெலியா) is a small town with approximately 25,000 inhabitants today, located in the highlands of Sri Lanka at an altitude of just under 2,000 meters [3]. Samuel Baker, discoverer of Lake Albert and the upper Nile, founded Nuwara Eliya in 1846 because the climate was ideal for a retreat for British officials and plantation owners in Ceylon. It was also known as "Little England." There, the British colonialists could indulge in their now somewhat eccentric pastimes, such as fox, deer, and elephant hunting, as well as polo, golf, and cricket. Nearby is Mount Piduruthalagala, at 2,524 meters the highest mountain in Sri Lanka, though it is now closed to the public. The city maintains its colonial-era architectural style. New buildings (hotels or other tourist facilities) are often constructed in this style. Many private owners still value their lawns and English-style houses. And hydrangeas!
The region is famous for its Orange Pekoe tea, one of the most prized teas in the world. In this cooler mountain region, the tea plant grows slowly, allowing for the development of a more refined aroma.
I recently read through William H. Ukers' book "All About Tea" [4] (again!). The tea industry in Ceylon dates back to 1839. As early as 1840-1842, tea plants were planted on the land of Sir Anthony Oliphant, Chief Justice, near Queens Cottage, Nuwara Eliya (Vol. 1, p. 177). The average temperature there is approximately 15-16°C, and the temperature variation between day and night is greater than on the coast; this is also a factor that influences the composition of a plant's constituents. "Nuwara Eliya escapes the extreme effects of the monsoons, but receives a liberal rainfall." (Vol. 1, p. 422).
Orange Pekoe is not a type of tea but a description of the leaf size in black tea (whole leaves of medium size), and otherwise refers to the unopened tea bud [5]. This doesn't tell us anything about the quality, but it's worth noting that a tea made from whole, medium-sized leaves differs significantly from broken tea leaves or even fannings and dust. Several words from the Chinese language Minnanyu (閩南語) are suggested as the etymology of the word Pekoe: either 白毫 (peh-ho) meaning "white hair" or "white down," or 白花 (peh-hoe) meaning "white flower." I'm inclined to believe the first option, which could refer to the white down on the young tea leaves.
How much does such a tea cost? It's difficult to say, but I'd estimate around €45-50/kg. Many teas on offer are blends, so let's just say you're on a case-by-case basis. Let your taste guide you.
I recently read through William H. Ukers' book "All About Tea" [4] (again!). The tea industry in Ceylon dates back to 1839. As early as 1840-1842, tea plants were planted on the land of Sir Anthony Oliphant, Chief Justice, near Queens Cottage, Nuwara Eliya (Vol. 1, p. 177). The average temperature there is approximately 15-16°C, and the temperature variation between day and night is greater than on the coast; this is also a factor that influences the composition of a plant's constituents. "Nuwara Eliya escapes the extreme effects of the monsoons, but receives a liberal rainfall." (Vol. 1, p. 422).
Orange Pekoe is not a type of tea but a description of the leaf size in black tea (whole leaves of medium size), and otherwise refers to the unopened tea bud [5]. This doesn't tell us anything about the quality, but it's worth noting that a tea made from whole, medium-sized leaves differs significantly from broken tea leaves or even fannings and dust. Several words from the Chinese language Minnanyu (閩南語) are suggested as the etymology of the word Pekoe: either 白毫 (peh-ho) meaning "white hair" or "white down," or 白花 (peh-hoe) meaning "white flower." I'm inclined to believe the first option, which could refer to the white down on the young tea leaves.
How much does such a tea cost? It's difficult to say, but I'd estimate around €45-50/kg. Many teas on offer are blends, so let's just say you're on a case-by-case basis. Let your taste guide you.
Links and Annotations:
[1] Tea from Nuwara Eliya
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2024/09/tee-aus-nuwara-eliya.html
[2] This sentence appeared in an English textbook from the 1930s. Unfortunately, my father's textbook has not survived.
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuwara_Eliya and https://si.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%B6%B1%E0%B7%94%E0%B7%80%E0%B6%BB%E0%B6%91%E0%B7%85%E0%B7%92%E0%B6%BA as well as
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuwara_Eliya
[4] William H. Ukers: All About Tea, 2 volumes. New York 1935. I borrowed this book once in the 1970s through interlibrary loan at the University Library of Cologne. Anyone wanting to purchase the first edition: https://www.abebooks.com/first-edition/Tea-Ukers-William-H-Coffee-Trade/31072643437/bd for US$2,800.00. It may also be purchased more cheaply, e.g., as a reprint. And it is now available digitally: https://www.univie.ac.at/Geschichte/China-Bibliographie/blog/2018/03/22/ukers-all-about-tea/
[5] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_Pekoe
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