Glimpses into Bhutan in the Year 2000 – A Travel Diary Part 5

 

11^th of October

I couldn't find the entrance to the dzong at 2:00 a.m. and went back to bed at 3:00 a.m. C. went later and found a side entrance after he fought off some dogs with a stick he had to cut. He could attend the morning ceremony.

On the way to our Swiss Cottage Lodge with public toilet / shower. I was asked if I had joined dinner and got diarrhea – sorry I didn't.

 

Through forests and pastures, past free-running horses. Then we went past a mountain farm. We reached a reasonable altitude, which is marked or secured by huge prayer flags, which can also be seen from the dzong.

After lunch we descended. The car was no longer waiting at the lodge. We then went on to the Center of Studies, where the monks are trained. Then descended further to the river and the bridge. In the village we were then driven to our hotel by another car.

Nami got his ceremonial scarf so that he could accompany us into the dzong. Did we move to the dzong together when the dzong was closed? No, because it was open. Unfortunately we met a French group again, with whom we had already shared the hotel in Darjeeling, but I was still able to take my pictures. The dzong was nice. I hoped the pictures would be something - analog camera with post-vacation development back home. The monks were preparing for the king's visit. A monk was jokingly chasing a cheeky young woman.

C.'s camera broke. He had only bought it three years ago in Polynesia for DM 1,400. An unrecoverable error [error code "H"]. He is using J.'s spare camera.

12^th of October

At 03:30 a.m. I went again to the Dzong, but the side entrance was closed. ， As Nima told me later, the side door was now kept locked after C.'s visit. No cheeky visitors allowed anymore.

In the morning we visited Mebartsho (burning lake – perhaps better described as a gorge). Pema Lingpa found treasures there while looking for mushrooms, including a book by Padmasmbhava. Actually, the book should have been given to him by a stranger - folklore as in Europe too.

Over the Shertang-la (3573 m). Beautiful view. I met locals looking for mushrooms.

Ura-la, 3100 m, not that extraordinary.

I bought doma and Künsel.

We stopped at a restaurant in Chamkhar Town that belongs to Jakar. Indian entrepreneur in Bhutanese garb. On the wall there is a picture of the king (the same picture that can be seen on the 10 rupee note) and a poster by Bon Jovi.

Three women are sitting at a table sharing a few bottles of beer; they always poured the others beer, as it is customary in Asia. We talk to the owner opposite, under the pictures, who is breastfeeding her baby. When she has to fetch something the guests take care of the baby. The women are kidding. The men later take care that the baby doesn't fall off the bench. Because after the women had finished the beer, three men came to drink coffee.

We stop at a stupa.
Later we go to the restaurant a second time. I bought some Bhutanese tapes (music).
Jakar is about 2600 m high.
Doma high, but stronger.

I find out that someone with a white sahib hat is from New Zealand and has previously been to Nepal for rafting.