The Prophet's Mosque and Medina, Saudi Arabia

 

Mecca is the holiest city in Islam, but Medina is a close second, and Jerusalem is the third holiest city. Mecca (مكة) remains closed to non-Muslims, and Medina had been also closed until 2022. The Prophet's Mosque is still closed to to non-Muslims visitors, and restrictions apply, but when you can walk through the rows of worshippers outside and see the green dome of the tombs of Muhammad and two of his companions and fathers-in-law, Abu Bakr and Umar, from your hotel, these restriction don't mean much. 

The correct name for Medina is al-Madīna al-Munawwara (Arabic: المَدِينَةُ المُنَوَّرَة). Medina is home to approximately 1.5 million inhabitants and a fluctuating number of pilgrims on their way to Mecca, even outside the pilgrimage month of Dhu al-Hijjah (ذي الحجة). Medina can be considered the "cradle of Islamic culture and civilization." Previously, the city was called Yathrib (َثْرِب), a name found on Babylonian inscriptions. Muhammad initially renamed the city Taybah, the Kind or the Good (طَيْبَة). Today, it is most commonly called Al-Madinah (The City) [1]. 

The Prophet's Mosque (ٱلْمَسْجِد ٱلنَّبَوِي) can accommodate 1 million worshippers. But there's also space around the mosque, and during my visit, there were worshippers praying there. These are separate areas through which even non-Muslims can walk from one side of the square to the other. The mosque and the prayer area measure approximately 1000 by 400 meters. The square is lined with shops and hotels. Those interested in the architecture can find more information in the Wikipedia article [2]. 

Between our hotel and the mosque was The International Exhibition and Museum of the Prophet's Biography and Islamic Civilization (المعرض والمتحف الدولي للسيرة النبوية) [3]. Besides artifacts, visitors walk past enormous walls: 3D, virtual reality, and panoramic, interactive, and cinematic displays educate visitors. "Content: Highlights include the Prophet's life, noble manners, Islamic civilization, and detailed models of Makkah and Medina." The museum guide who accompanied us spoke perfect English and French, but also understood German. 

Since there was even more to see in Medina, I will certainly write about it again. I noticed that the pilgrims also engage in some tourism, as people back home expect a report and perhaps a souvenir. 

Links and Annotations:
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medina and https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medina 
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prophet%27s_Mosque 
[3] https://www.visitsaudi.com/en/makkah/attractions/international-exhibition-and-museum-of-the-biography-of-the-prophet-and-islamic-civilization and https://med.ethaf.com/en 

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Diriyah near Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

 

Diriyah (الدِرْعِيّة) is an important site for Saudi Arabia [1], as it is the original home of the House of Saud and was also the capital from 1727 to 1818, during the first Saudi state. The city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also the birthplace of Wahhabism, which became associated with the House of Saud, which is why I need to talk a little about Wahhabism here. I hesitated somewhat before writing this article because, although I had read some articles about it, I felt it wasn't enough and did some further reading, especially in a German book by Martin Pabst, "Understanding Saudi Arabia" [2]. Diriyah (Dirʿiyya) is a suburb of Riyadh (الرياض) with just over 61,000 inhabitants. The original settlement of low mud-brick buildings lies directly on the Wadi Hanifa and is now an open-air museum. Behind these buildings, on a hillcock, sits the Salwa Palace (قصر سلوى), which is open to visitors. There are also exhibitions there.

The afternoon traffic from Riyadh made the drive to Diriyah longer than expected. I was particularly interested in the Saudi visitors. I would have placed them in the upper middle class. I saw children aged 1½ to 2 years with their own tablets in strollers; I've never seen that anywhere else. The children were already using the tablets, and by that I mean they weren't just looking at pictures. Unlike in the city center, where I had also seen women without headscarves, here most women wore headscarves and quite a lot also wore a niqab. We arrived after sunset, but that was fine because of the atmosphere and a light show. The Veterinary Museum had caught my eye. Only cell phone photography was allowed. I never understood the logic behind that. But it was less noticeable that way, since I sometimes showed interest in the visitors and not just the place itself.

Wahhabism is characterized by puritanical piety and incorporates certain points from the Hanbalist school of thought; this school traces its origins to the jurist Ahmed ibn Hanbal (780-855), who worked in Basra and Baghdad. Muhammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab (1703-1792) considered the Shiites to be apostates, and Muslims should also keep distance from Jews, Christians, and other non-Muslims. His major work is titled Kitab at-Tawhid (كتاب التوحيد / Book of One God Belief). He spoke out particularly against intermediaries between God and believers, the veneration of the dwellings or graves of martyrs, and amulets. We will certainly examine him and his teachings in more detail later.

I must simplify things now. The first Saudi state existed from 1744 to 1818. It was founded on the alliance of the House of Saud, represented by the Emir of Diriyah, Mohammed ibn Saud (محمد بن سعود), and the cleric Mohammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab. The Emir pledged to uphold Islam in the Wahhabi sense, and Mohammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab legitimized the House of Saud as absolute rulers. The first battles were fought only over a few oases and Riyadh, but later the House of Saud pressed the Ottoman Empire, leading to the state's collapse in 1818, though it has risen again and again.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site at Diriyal is well worth a visit!

Links and Annotations:
[1] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dir%CA%BFiyya and
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diriyah
[2] Martin Pabst:Saudi-Arabien verstehen. Geschichte, Religion, Gesellschaft. Klett-Cotta, Stuttgart 2022/2023. ISBN: 978-3-608-12104-9. 241 pp.

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Mecca, the Kaaba, and the Pilgrims

 

Non-Muslims are now permitted to visit Medina (مدينة‎). This was not possible until recently. However, it remains impossible for non-Muslims to visit Mecca  or Makkah ( مكة). Therefore, we want to discuss Makkah, the Kaaba ( الكعبة), and the pilgrims. These are topics that inevitably arise during a trip through Saudi Arabia.

It wasn't even the pilgrimage month of Dhu al-Hijjah [Dhu al-Hijjah ( ذُو ٱلْحِجَّة) ] yet. Only pilgrimages performed on specific days during this month count as Hajj. Nevertheless, believers still make the pilgrimage to Mecca, as it is considered a meritorious act. The first groups I saw were in Medina at the Prophet's Mosque (المسجد النبوي) and elsewhere in the city [1]. The Prophet's Mosque is considered the second holiest site in Islam. It is also the Prophet's tomb. But that's another story.

Kaaba literally means "the cube." The Kaaba is covered with the Kiswa (كسوة), which is regularly renewed. You can watch the Kaaba being circumambulated by pilgrims on a Saudi Arabian television channel. I found this very meditative, especially because verses from the Quran are recited during the process. I've included a picture here, but there's more, as this channel can also be viewed online as a live stream: "Al Quran Al Kareem channel offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the teachings and recitations of the Holy Quran in real-time." [2]

In the Jeddah Park (Cenomi) shopping mall in Jeddah, you can visit several museums on the top floor. In one wing, you can see textiles that were used to cover the Kaaba and a number of curtains used to dress the Kaaba's door in bygone eras [3]. A separate museum focuses on the Kaaba. There you can see pictures of the Kaaba, some of them drawings by foreign travelers, tiles, and postcards. A rich collection. And then there's also a model of Mecca with the Kaaba in the center, which I photographed.

Would I want to visit Mecca? Absolutely! Muslims make up about 25% of the world's population (Christians about 30%), and the number of Muslims but also the number of agnostics is growing faster than Christians. It certainly makes sense to learn about this religion. However, I wouldn't travel during the pilgrimage month.

Links and Annotations:
[1] I have consulted various Wikipedia articles:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prophetenmoschee
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiswah
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaaba
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mekka
[2] Saudi Al Quran Al Kareem TV Channel Live
https://makkahlive.net/tvquran.aspx
[3] https://www.iarts.sa/en/hall-6

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Was ist los mit der Osmanischen Herberge in Sötenich (Eifel)?

 

Wenn ich zum Einkaufen nach Kall fahre, komme ich unweigerlich durch Sötenich durch und da ist die Osmanische Herberge. Nun herrschte besonders zum Wochenende dort reger Verkehr. Nicht so in den letzten Wochen, so daß ich mich gewundert habe: was ist los mit der Osmanischen Herberge in Sötenich?

Ich erinnere mich noch an meine ersten Kontakte, als „dä Scheich“ sehr farbenfroh mit Turban auf dem Mofa durch die Gegend fuhr, um den WochenSpiegel auszuteilen – das übernahmen dann andere Personen und nun steht eine Kiste im Wartehäuschen und der Vertrieb klappt nicht mehr, aber das ist eine ganz andere Geschichte. Meine Schwägerin erzählte mir von der  Osmanischen Herberge in Sötenich mit dem Restaurant Derwisch, denn ich war damals noch nicht durch Sötenich gefahren, sondern immer durch Steinfeld, um nach Diefenbach zu gelangen. Ich fand das schon damals sehr interessant.  Noch interessanter fand ich jedoch, daß es sich um eine Gruppe handelt, die dem Sufismus folgt. Ich hatte das Grab von Hafiz in Shiraz zweimal besucht. 

Was ist los mit der Osmanischen Herberge in Sötenich? Ich habe gestern (Samstag) angehalten. Tote Hose. Aber die Lichter für die Notausgänge brennen noch. Das zeigt eine minimale Nutzung oder einen Nutzungswillen an. Aber sonst konnte ich keine Aktivität feststellen. Auf der Internet-Seite des Osmanischen Herberge steht zum „Großen Saal“ [1]: „Die Nutzung wird noch etwas dauern. Ziel: Fertigstellung bis zum Eid ul-Fitr, um dort wieder große Treffen abzuhalten, insha'Allah. Bis dahin werden die großen Treffen im Sufizentrum Rasenmühle in Kassel stattfinden.“ Ich nehme einmal an, daß damit der 20. März 2026 gemeint ist [2]. Das Sufizentrum Rasenmühle gehört zum Verein „Sufipfad der Liebe e.V.“ [3], wo Scheikh Hassan (geboren als Peter Christian Dyck in West-Berlin [4]), der sich nicht gerne Leiter der Osmanischen Herberge bezeichnen läßt, aber er ist einer den wenigen deutschstämmigen Imame. Er hatte unter anderem in Medina und Damaskus Arabisch und den Koran studiert und hatte später zehnmal als Reiseleiter Pilgerfahrten nach Mekka begleitet. Aktuell sind „Übernachtungen in der Herberge untersagt“. Bis hierhin kann ich die Ergebnisse meiner Recherche schon einmal zusammenfassen: 1995 wurde die Osmanischen Herberge „als Sufi Zentrum für Nordeuropa“ gegründet und muß nun renoviert werden. Das Zentrum folgt der Lehre von Scheikh Muhammad Nazim al-Haqqani al-Rabbani, der aus Zypern stammte und 2014 verstorben ist. Er war Oberhaupt des Naqshbandi-Ordens. Das aber sei nun Stichwort für etwas Wissen über den Sufismus.

Wenn ich mich nun in verkürzender und vereinfachender Weise dem Sufismus nähere, dann nehme ich dazu zwei Quellen: das Buch „Sufismus“ von Annemarie Schimmel [5] und den Wikipedia-Artikel [6]. Die Etymologie des Wortes Sufi ist nicht völlig geklärt, aber wahrscheinlich kommt das Wort Sufi von arabisch ṣūf ( صُوف) – „Schurwolle“ und weist auf die einfache Kleidung der Derwische hin. Der Sufismus ist aus Formen der Askese hervorgegangen. Man nahm im Westen zur Zeit Johann Wolfgang von Goethes die „umherschweifenden, heulenden, tanzenden Derwische“ wahr. Goethes „West-östlicher Divan“ [7] ist eine Begegnung des Westens mit persischer Dichtung aus dem Sufismus; ich erinnere mich gut an die private Lesung von Hans Conrad Zander daraus am Grab von Hafiz (1330-1389) in Schiraz. 

„Auf der Spur der jungen Rose, lieber Gott, wo ist mein Herz
Hingelaufen, denn ich hab es nicht gesehn seit Tag und Nacht?“ [8]

Die Rose gilt als Symbol im Sufismus: die Dornen stehen für das Gesetz, der Stängel für den Weg, die Blüte die Wahrheit, der Duft für die Erkenntnis. 

Grab von Hafiz 2018

Grab von Hafiz 2004

Hier ist gut Abschweifen! Ich kann nicht umhin, noch einen persischen Dichter zu nennen, dessen Grab ich auch besucht habe, aber das war insofern einfach, da es sich direkt beim Grab von Hafiz befindet. Ich spreche von Saadi oder Sa'di (ca. 1210 bis ca. 1292), der bekannt wurde durch die beiden Werke Bustān („Duftgarten“) und Golestān („Rosengarten“) und ebenfalls ein Mystiker war, wobei nicht klar ist, ob er Sufi war.  

Oder die Schriften von Jelaladdin Rumi (1207-1273) [9]:
„Ohne die Liebe, sag, wäre das Leben da schön?
Sieh, nur die Liebe kann Freude und Frohsinn erhöhn!“ 

Auf Rumi aber geht der Mevlevi Derwisch-Orden [10] zurück. Heute gilt die Stadt Konya [11] als Ursprungsort dieses Ordens. Es geht im Zusammenhang mit Rumi um die Musik, die als Begleitung für Kreistänze der Semâ-Zeremonie diente. Im Westen wurde dieser Trancetanz unter dem Stichwort „drehende Derwische“ bekannt. Er ist eine der möglichen Formen des Dhikr, „der meditativen Übung zur Vergegenwärtigung Gottes“ [12]. 

Im Westen sind auch die Eulenspiegeleien oder besser Lehrgeschichten eines Sufis bekannt – des Nasruddin Hodscha oder Nasreddin Hodscha [13], dessen Geschichten ich vor 1-2 Jahren gelesen habe, aber das Buch gerade nicht finde.

Kehren wir aus dem Mittleren Osten nach Sötenich zurück. Wie las ich da? „Treffen in der kleinen Moschee / Bis auf Weiteres nutzen wir die kleine Moschee im Kellergeschoss für unsere Versammlungen (z. B. Dhikr und Juma)“. Was sich hinter Dhikr verbrigt, wissen wir nun. Der Sufismus wird wegen seines Mystizismus als unpolitisch wahrgenommen. Das ist er selbstverständlich als Teil des Islams nicht. Aber trotzdem würde der Region etwas fehlen, wenn die Osmanische Herberge im März 2026 nicht wieder öffnen würde.

Links und Anmerkungen:
[1] https://osmanische-herberge.de/ 
[2] https://www.timeanddate.de/feiertage/deutschland/id-al-fitr 
[3] http://www.sufipfad.de/2025/06/22/summer-camp-31-7-10-08-25/ 
[4] Ich hörte aus Berlin-Wilmersdorf. Da wurde einer meiner Großväter am 27.09.1918 konfirmiert.
[5] Annemarie Schimmel: Sufismus. Eine Einführung in die islamische Mystik. C.H. Beck, München 2000/2008. ISBN: 978-3-406-46028-9.
[6] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sufismus 
[7] Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: West-östlicher Diva. Verlag Heinrich Ellermann, Hamburg 1947.
[8] A. Schimmel, W. Gundert, W. Schuring (Hrsg.): Lyrik des Ostens. Gedichte der Völker Asiens vom Nahen bis zum Fernen Osten. marixverlag, Wiesbaden 2004. ISBN: 3-937715-27-4. S. 103. Die Übersetzung stammt von Friedrich Rückert (1788-1866).
[9] a.a.O. S. 97. Die Übersetzung stammt von Annemarie Schimmel (1922-2003). Rumi kenne ich allerdings besser aus: Erkan Türkmen: Besinnung Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumis Schönste Verse. Nüve Kültür Merkezi, Konya/Istanbul 2011. ISBN: 978-605-4336-31-9.
[10] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mevlevi 
[11] Dort war auch Paulus vor fast 2000 Jahren, als die Stadt noch Iconium hieß. Paulus und Barnabas in Lystra 
https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2024/02/paulus-und-barnabas-in-lystra.html 
[12] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhikr 
[13] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasreddin  

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To beat one's chest, Iran, and Bruno Guardini

I experienced this beating of the chest with a group of pilgrims in Isfahan during Muharram [1], and then again on television in the evening. I remembered it again when I read Romano Guardini's „Von heiligen Zeichen“ [2]. One might be surprised that I am reading an old book by Guardini [3], but I discovered it in a public bookshelf. And on the cover page of the book, it said: „Guardini unfolds the entire beauty of sacred signs. Even in the Protestant Church, signs and symbols should once again receive a living interpretation and appreciation, as we Protestants have become estranged from the pieces of liturgy.“ This was attributed to a paper called „Sonntagsbote“, which I could no longer locate.

Guardini writes: „And every time they utter the word „guilt“ [culpa], they strike their chest.“ And further: „It is a strike, not a delicate gesture.“ „Therefore, priests and people strike their chest when confessing their sins during the Gradual Prayer.“ „Likewise, the believers strike their chest when the host and chalice are elevated during the transubstantiation.“

Striking the chest is a minor means, as in the Middle Ages, there were flagellants in the Christian realm who performed public penance rituals by whipping themselves with whips or other instruments. Even in the 20th century, there was a group of flagellants in Spain known as „Los disciplinantes.“ This is no longer allowed in modern Iran – yes, the Islamic Republic of Iran is a modern state despite all media attempts – but one can still obtain the tools for it, as I have described before [4].

The guardian of a German Capuchin monastery once told me that he was among the first novices who had the choice of whether to whip themselves on Fridays. For this purpose, the refectory was prepared (shutters closed) and they whipped themselves together – we talk about the 1960s. The novices of that time no longer wanted this practice, but I imagine that it still exists in Opus die or similar conservative groups. The participants of the procession that went to Masjid e Jameh in Isfahan struck their chests vigorously, with women being exempted. However, the participants from Afghanistan struck their chests particularly forcefully.
In the evening, I saw a preacher on an Iranian channel reciting verses in front of a red inscription, with a huge hall full of men reciting after him and striking their chests vigorously. The scene was bathed in green. Red symbolizes love for God and devotion to faith. Green is associated with paradise and is considered a particularly positive color in Islam. That's why this arrangement was so  impressive. The atmosphere came across perfectly, and one could almost smell the sweat (a little digression on my part).

Bruno Guardini reminds me that people in faith are much closer to each other than the hate preachers of any denomination want us to believe.

Links and Annotations:
[1] https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2018/11/a-procession-at-masjid-e-jameh-isfahan.html
[2] Romano Guardini (17 February 1885 – 1 October 1968) was an Italian, naturalized German Catholic priest, philosopher, and theologian. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romano_Guardini
[3] Romano Guardini: Von heiligen Zeichen (1922–1925) [Of Sacred Symbols]. Matthias-Grünewald-Verlag, Mainz o.J. um 1950, 102.-111. Tausend, S. 19-20.
[4] „Public flagellation, however, is forbidden in Iran. One might see such things at Karbala.“ I've seen this shop in Tabriz. https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2018/11/paraphernalia-for-muharram.html

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Mongolia - The Main Mosque of Ölgii

 

When we had been in Ölgii (Mongolian Өлгий, Kazakh Өлгей) [1], we were also able to visit the main mosque of Ölgii,. I thought at first that the name Bas Mufti (Chief Mufti) had something to do with the mosque, but it's probably the name of a Muslim brotherhood or umbrella organization of which I haven't been able to find more data. Ölgii itself is the capital of the Bayan Ölgii Aimag (Mongolian Баян-Өлгий аймаг, Kazakh Баян-Өлгей аймағы), which is located in the extreme west of Mongolia and borders to both Russia and China. The city is located at an altitude of 1710 m. It also has an airport and, interestingly, there are not only flights to Ulaanbaatar or Ulaangom, but there are also irregular flights to Almaty in Kazakhstan. This has something to do with the fact that mainly Kazakhs live in this aimag and they are usually Muslims, which is why there are also some mosques there.

There used to be a mosque long ago, but not only Buddhism suffered during the Stalin era, Islam fared just as badly. The mosque was destroyed and the imams killed. During this period, Kazakhs were also forbidden to speak Kazakh. Today, in the Bayan-Olgii aimag, Kazakh is the language for everyday communication and Mongolian is used only for inter-ethnic interactions and official communication.

Besides the main mosque there are four more in Ölgii today. The mosque was built in the 1990ies. Women are also welcome in the mosque but should cover their hair. I met a very devout Muslim in the mosque who wanted to convert me right away. The mosque is blue and has slender minarets [2]. Inside it is stylishly designed.

But it still annoys me a bit that I couldn't find out more about the „Mongolian Muslim Societies Federation „Бас Мүфти“ Шашны Байгууллага“ [3].

Links and Annotations:
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%96lgii_(city)  Interestingly, the English Wikipedia article says the Kazakh form of Ölgii is Өлке, but I think the German article correctly states this as Өлгей -
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%96lgii, also https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bajan-%C3%96lgii-Aimag
[2] https://discover-bayanolgii.com/olgii-city/
[3] Searching on Google with БАС МҮФТИ leads to the Kazakh chief mufti.

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Pilgrims Both on Tour and on TV during Muharram

I‘ve seen pilgrims on tour during the month of Muharram. Muharram (محرم) is the first month of the Islamic calendar and one of the holy months, second only to Ramadan. I am pretty sure that the men are pilgrims on tour, maybe to Karbala (كربلاء). With the women on bus I’m not that sure.

And I think that the still pictures from TV also show pilgrims near Karbala (كربلاء) or Qom (قم) or Mashad (مشهد).

Links:

https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2018/11/a-procession-at-masjid-e-jameh-isfahan.html

https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2018/11/paraphernalia-for-muharram.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mourning_of_Muharram

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashura

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Paraphernalia for Muharram

In Tabriz I’ve seen a shop with flags. As I’ve made some photographs, I realized that this shop also sold the paraphernalia for the month of Muharram. Muharram (محرم) is the first month of the Islamic calendar and one of the holy months, second only to Ramadan.

An expression of grief is the beating of the chest. Another form is flagellation as a symbolic act of the blood-shedding of Hosein Ibn Ali. One form of flagellation is striking the back with chains. Such chains are seen in the display of this shop. Public flagellation, however, is forbidden in Iran. One might see such things at Karbala. Maybe one buys such chains as to remember the past.

 

Links:

https://rheumatologe.blogspot.com/2018/11/a-procession-at-masjid-e-jameh-isfahan.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mourning_of_Muharram

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashura

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