Hemis Gompa in Ladakh

 

Hemis Gompa is situated about 45 km South of Leh. It belongs to the Drukpa Lineage (a branch of the Kagyu), also known as the „red hats“, and has been founded in the 11^th century or even before, but had been re-established in 1672 by King Sengge Namgyal [1]. There's an annual festival each June honoring Guru Rinpoche. Another festival is the Naropa festival every 12^th year.

The monastery houses about 350 monks, but the sect is said to be the wealthiest in Ladakh as the Drukpa Lineage owns about 200 monasteries and other sacred places with about 1000 monks [2]. Head of the monastery (abbot) and leader of the Drukpa Lineage is the 12^th Gyalwang Drukpa, Jigme Pema Wangchen, who was born in 1963. Gyalwang Drukpa is the honorific title of the head of the Drukpa Lineage. There are two entries on Wikipedia, which might be interesting to someone, who wants to know more on the activities of the 12^th Gyalwang Drukpa [3], as the Drukpa Lineage is the leading sect in Bhutan and they also maintain centers in Europe and the USA. The 12^th Gyalwang Drukpa is also founder of the Druk White Lotus School, which had been featured in the Bollywood movie "Three Idiots" (just as a fun fact).

 

 

Maybe you have heard about Life of Saint Issa, the otherwise unknown gospel, which a Russian journalist, Nicolas Notovitch, claimed to have unearthed at Hemis Gompa in 1894. This had been a time, when Hemis was so off the beaten track, that you could get through with such a fake. If you love to read the fake account – it's available [4].



 

Hemis Gompa has lots of rooms to visit, but they have a strict policy on photography – no photography inside the rooms. One picture has been allowed, not really inside, but showing a 5 m high prayer mill. One can see the Om mani padme hum in Devanagiri and Ladakhi script. There are the dukhang parpa (middle hall), the dukhang chenmo (great assemby hall), lakhang Nyingpa (old temple), zabkhang or guru lakhang and more. You should go there as soon as covid-19 allows travelling again.

You may also visit the museum of the gompa, which exhibits Thangkas, weapons, carriers, skripts, statues and so on [5]. Strictly no photography.<

 

Links and References:
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemis_Monastery
[2] Mattausch, Jutta: Ladakh und Zanskar (Reiseführer) (Deutsch). 2017.
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyalwang_Drukpa and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drukpa_Lineage
[4] The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Unknown Life of Jesus Christ, by Nicolas Notovitch, Translated by J. H. Connelly and L. Landsberg. https://www.gutenberg.org/files/29288/29288-h/29288-h.htm (cited from Wikipedia)
[5] https://devilonwheels.com/hemis-monastery-ladakh-travel-guide/

 

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